Saturday, June 24, 2017

Isle Royale National Park

A bucket-item list fulfilled, I am a happy camper!!  This will be a long blog - I need to share my joy. Over 35 years ago I worked with a man who was from Upper Michigan and he always talked about Isle Royale and through him I fell in love with this island before i saw it.  Thank you Scott for making me aware of this pristine place where moose and gray wolves abound.  Did we see moose yesterday?  Yes! Not one time but 2!!!!!!!!!!
Families going over to spend more than one day
Lots of people, so little boat! Skies so blue.
Seating inside for 25, seating outside 25.  Luck of the reservations
where you will end up - in or out.
And we are off
Range marker, near Suzie Island
The first moose we saw was on our way to Grand Portage where we were to take the ferry, it was standing in the middle of the road, HUGE, and puffs of air steaming out of it's nose and mouth, just glaring at us. Camera ready? no. Then it turned and ran up into the forest.  We were VERY diligent from then on, no moose decorating our car's hood for us.
Lake is flat, wish it were on the way back!
Fish house nearby
Spirit tree growing out of the rock
Canada in the distance, heading due east to Isle Royale
But - so much to tell about the day…..  Started out with us driving about 40 minutes more north on Route 61 (North Shore Drive) to Grand Portage where we boarded a ferry to take us to the island.  We were called onto the boat by order of our reservations, so by the time we boarded, all the indoor seating was taken up, we had to sit outside on the back area, bench seating.  Brrr.  They are not kidding that the crossing the lake can be chilly - the water temperature is a balmy 40 degrees and the wind off the water makes for uncomfortable if you are not dressed for it.  Crossed Lake Superior in an hour, stopping first to see the Spirit Tree, an ancient tree believed to be over 400 years old, the Ojibwa would stop and present gifts to the tree to honor the spirits for safe time on the water.
The small islands around Isle Royale coming into view 

Below lies the SS America
The bow is 2 feet below this buoy - can just make it out

And on we zoom into Windigo Harbor (inlet into the park)
Once we neared the island, the ferry took a quick detour to the sunken ship, SS America, which sank in 1928 on a reef right inside one of the islands of the archipelago.  The captain of the ferry maneuvered the boat so we could see it - the bow of the boat is 2 feet below the surface.
Fishing boat with outriggers - captain had to go around him
Windigo dock and pavilion ahead 
We made it - 7 years to the day later!
Continued on to Windigo, the western dock on the Island.  Once I stepped off the boat, I was so happy - I made it!  And here’s the ironic part - 7 years ago to the day we tried to take the ferry from Houghton, Michigan to the eastern side of the island - only to find that it is a 5 hour ride and you cannot return same day, have to have reservations at the lodge, or backpack/camp.  I was so disappointed.  Some day I told myself I will make it to the island.


Walking up to visitor's center, our boat will wait for us
Had our orientation by the park ranger, then set off to do a quick walk.  Just wanted to experience being on the island.  That’s when we saw the moose tracks and I felt we were being watched (Mr. Moose probably was right by us only we had not opened our eyes enough to see).
Hoping to see a moose
How the SS America looks as it sits below the water
We had brought food and drinks along in a backpack, stopped under the pavilion near the boat dock and had our lunch.  By then a rain storm had moved in (of course it would have to rain - it has rained every day we have been here), and we waited until it stopped, took off again to go find the campground.  Was told that moose sightings were common there.  
Nice stroll through the woods 



Fresh moose tracks - here, moosey, moosey, moosey!


Some of the reservable sites at the campground were lean-to kinda cabins - enclosed with screens (yep, the ‘squeeters were bad, and you have somewhat protection if a moose or wolf were near), and you had your own bathtub - your own private stairs into the water if you choose to do so.  The campground has showers and toilet near the dock, and there is a pit toilet near the campsites.  Would I do this?  If I was a lot younger, yes.  But if we come back to the island, it will be from Houghton and have reservations at the Park’s lodge on the eastern side (the island is 22 miles long). It's a big island.

Where are you Mr. Moose???



Oh, so pretty
Along the bank, seen better times
Again, another light rain shower came in and we headed back to the dock and pavillon.  By then we had about an hour before the ferry returned back to Grand Portage, and while waiting, someone yelled that there was a moose swimming across the water.  This is the second time we saw a moose, someone pointed out a moose swimming to Beaver Island and this time we had cameras ready.  Funny thing was, Dave and I had trekked along the nature trail and while on the trail we saw many fresh moose tracks, I felt that we were being watched, and after returning back, a group of people who were on the trail about 10 minutes behind us, were excited - a moose walked right in front of them.  We all think it was the same moose who then waded into the water and swam to another island.  Cool. 

Washington Creek campground - maybe see a moose?
Cabins tucked away
Your own stairway into the water 
Talk about no essentials - definitely would need an air mattress
Inside looking out - through the screens
Very quaint
Boarded the boat and we scooted to get inside the enclosed cabin and we were able to secure the last 2 seats inside.  And it was a good thing - the lake had kicked up and was running 2 to 3 foot waves with the occasional 4 to 5 foot swells.  The boat was getting pounded, and of course the spray from those waves washed over the boat and the folks in the back where we were sitting going over, got drenched.  I am so glad we were inside!  By the time we docked the people in the back were shivering, and I bet some will be sick in a day or so.
First caught sight of swimming moose
I could see it's ears flicking around, raining pretty good.
That's one big moose!!!
The captain said that in the afternoon the lake typically kicks up like this, that what we experienced was common.  We now have a healthy appreciation for Lake Superior.

Super day on Isle Royale.  And, it’s a national park that you can only get to by boat or sea plane, so many people have not visited it.  The island shuts down shortly after Labor Day, the lake is too unpredictable and it gets very very cold.  The island is so pristine, they said over 1600 moose on Isle Royale.  They can cross over to the islands in the winter when the Lake is frozen.  Is it what I expected to see?  No, it is more raw and pristine than you can imagine, even more pristine than the Boundary Waters area.  The park service is so strict in ‘pack it in, pack it out’, they constantly are monitoring the trails for debris left by humans.  
Spring just arrived
I swear there was Moose eyes looking at us! 
Baby Mergansers swimming around
Wild orchards - just about ready to open
The smell of the woods, dampness of the earth, yes - squeeters but what the heck?, butterflies, birds chirping, moose (if you are lucky), and if you get to stay overnight and it's clear - the Northern Lights are supposed to give a great show, spectacular scenery, marvelous experience, maybe hear the howling of a wolf (we have heard this in the upper peninsula of Michigan).  But, the drawback - we have a new bucket-list item - to secure lodging on the east end of the island and stay for a couple of days, living in luxury while able to get out and see more of the island. Yes!

No comments:

Post a Comment