Monday, September 30, 2019

Amarillo By Mornin'

Amarillo's on my mind, Amarillo by mornin', Amarillo's where I'll be  (words and song by George Strait, country western star who recorded the hit in 1982).  We had been talking all summer about heading to Texas to get our driver's licenses updated with the Federal mandate, and we thought - hey, why not make Amarillo our destination to do that?
First time seeing Amarillo on a sign (still in Oklahoma City)
Skyline of Oklahoma City
Weird structure, this is a walkway over I40 in Oklahoma City
Not sure about this since Garth was born in Tulsa, not Oklahoma City
Crossed the Chisholm Trail, a major cattle thorofare from Texas to Kansas
The day started out yesterday morning, leaving Oklahoma City by 9am.  It was touchy at first if we were going to leave, I think I had a kidney stone the night before, and I think I passed it by 5am.  What a painful experience!!!  By 5am we were showered and thinking, lets head to the ER to see what's going on and wham - once I said it out loud, the pain subsided.  Did a little googling and I really think that's what happened.  Ouch, did that hurt, awful experience. We took a quick nap (I had been awake since 2am with it) and when we woke at 7am, I said life is good, let's go.  Drugged up Buddy and had to wait for 2 hours which gave me time to make sure I could go, and I told Dave that even if it came back while driving, we were heading to a bigger city (Amarillo) so let's do it.
Many oil refineries  
Cherokee Nation really did up this rest area, billboards for miles
Long lonely road
Made it to Texas - our 17th state this summer

The drive was very hard on Dave.  Winds battered us all the way, we were heading almost due west and the winds were gusting to 35 miles an hour from the south (hitting our left side of the RV) and made the RV and car rock/swerve.  At least no rain, thank goodness.  Passed through Oklahoma City, then out on lonely roads until hitting the Texas border.
Wind farms mean high winds - higher winds here than elsewhere, great
We could tell we were getting closer to Amarillo when the traffic picked up.  Saw lots and lots of wind farms, and oil fields, and long stretches of land without any homes/ranches.  Desolate.  The wind was just awful.  We drove along Interstate 40 all the way, this is the original route of the Old Route 66 from the mid 1960's.
Sad, abandoned
Got into the campground by 2:30pm, set up and just went - phew, that was awful.  This morning was an amazing sunrise, and again, gusty winds.  We did make it to the license bureau, did not have all the paperwork so had to bee-line back to the RV, dig up our passports, then headed back and got our licenses renewed.  And we also got our car inspected this afternoon, will take the RV to the inspection station tomorrow morning to get that done. Learned that high winds is the norm for Amarillo - always is blowing.  Something we are not used to.
Route 66 signage all along Interstate 40
And our exit to the campground - 262 miles later
So, 3 out of 4 things done just on day one.  Hopefully tomorrow will go smoothly, then we have 2 days to do some shopping to resupply.  We leave here Friday for New Mexico.
Howdy yourself!
Sunrise this morning

Saturday, September 28, 2019

Stopover in Oklahoma City

We were sad to leave Gilbert, Arkansas yesterday morning, especially the chickens, rooster, and Lola. Lola is one of 2 dogs the owner has, she is a cutie, reminded us of Kai who is our friend's dog.  We wondered how we would get along now that we were not serenaded in the morning with the cock-a-doodle-dooing. And that rooster had a sore throat, his voice in the morning cracked half way through his song.  Will miss the beautiful Ozark Mountains - it is pretty.
Big meeting going on
Lola - a twin of neighbor's Kai
Loved this compass rose on the General Store
The Ozarks 
Pretty country 

Leaving Gilbert, when you pass the General Store, they have painted a compass rose on the corner of the store's building.  Gave us an idea to do something similar when we get to our winter hide-away.

Motorcycles and music festival going on in Branson - saw over 1,000 bikers
We have not seen so many bridges anywhere - this is on Route 412 in Arkansas 


First time seeing Oklahoma City
16th state this summer, first time camping in Oklahoma
Lake Eufala, it's a biggun!
The GPS took us north out of Gilbert, through Harrison, then west on Route 412.  This route is part of the original 'Trail of Tears" route that in the late 1830's the government forced over 100,000 Native Americans from the Southeast, specifically the Cherokee, Creek, Chickasaw, Choctaw, and Seminole nations west of the Mississippi River.  Over 15,000 people perished during the journey.  Once we entered Oklahoma, we would pass through each of the Nation's land - Entering Choctaw land, Entering Seminole land, etc.

Once we got to Springdale, Arkansas, we were on the northern side of Fayetteville, picked up Interstate 49 south to Interstate 40 and then headed west to Oklahoma City.  No rain, just very high winds and at times very gusty.  We found out later that that is normal - high winds and gusts.  Will experience it again tomorrow when we head further west to get to Amarillo, Texas.  Great.

Tuesday, September 24, 2019

Buffalo National River

Very pretty area.  In the Ozark Mountains, the national river (first national river designated on the 100th anniversary of Yellowstone National Park - the first national park) signed by President Nixon in 1972) is a kayaker, canoeist, tubing dream come true.  No white water which makes the river very family friendly.  Right now the river is only 1 1/2 feet deep here in Gilbert, Arkansas but in the spring melt or after heavy rains, the river can get over 40 feet deep which makes it a very dangerous flowing river.  The Buffalo is also the longest free-flowing river - no dams, many creeks flow into it, ground runoff from rains/snow melt, eventually joining the White River which then flows into the Mississippi River.  The river originates in the Boston Mountains in western Arkansas, those mountains are part of the Ozarks, and flows 151 miles eastward until it's confluence to the White River.
This momma deer and her baby stay around our campground


2 years ago it got 45 feet above flood stage
First time to ever see Beauty Berries, different
This box turtle was very quick, did not like us near it

We were told to visit  Collier's homestead and go on to the overlook 
Collier family homesteaded here until 1937

Could see that the home was used, the wood floors were shiny from use


What's left of the smokehouse
Gilbert is located in the 'middle' section of the river and we have visited some of the launching areas just to get a flavor of what it would be like in the summer when thousands of people flock to the river to float.  We also have visited the 'lower' section which is designated as nearing the eastern confluence.  We were told by the ranger that we should try to visit Buffalo Point, some pretty scenic views could be found there. And so we did.
Trail behind homestead to Tyler Bend overlook

Dave almost stepped on this guy



We think this area is quite charming, more economically depressed than what we have encountered in our travels, but this is the Ozarks where people live off the land and are pretty self-sufficient.  The closest town to do grocery shopping is 12 miles to the south, called Marshall, population 1335, but it has the stores, banks, auto things you need.  To do more in-depth shopping you travel north to Harrison or south to Little Rock. We saw some charming cabins, some really hard-luck homes, and yet the people are just so friendly.
The drive to Buffalo Point     Rut-roh 

So many outfitters in the area


Hard to read - but we made it to Buffalo Point
We drove to Buffalo Point yesterday and we were able to walk along the river bank.  There the water level is 3 feet, did not see any boaters, but knew there would be 2 canoes coming eventually, an outfitter picked up 2 couples at the parking lot where we walked down to see the river, and we are assuming he drove them westward probably to Dillards Ferry landing where they could paddle for about 3 miles.  Looked like a fun thing to do if we ever would come back.
A group fo Norton/Triumph/BMW/Vincent motorcycles (English) and
all had antique plates on them, on their way to Mountain Home
2 bikes broken down on back of equipment truck


Buffalo Point Overlook, will go down to river next and walk along banks

Dave took some photos of our RV sitting at Gilbert RV Park, we are the lone camper.  Have been since Sunday afternoon.  The campground is open all year, the owner said that it could get down to 9 below (Gilbert holds the record for coldest place in Arkansas) and hunters are the folks that are here in the winter.  Brrrr.  No thank you.  He said in the summer - he is absolutely slammed with campers.
Down at river level, Buffalo Point
When you are coming down-river, you see signage to tell you where you are 
River is low!


I like the reflection in the water
More outfitters, this one is near our campground
The owner also told us that bear, wild pigs, elk, deer, coyotes, bobcats can be seen here in campground.  He told Dave of the 84 year old woman across the road who chased a bear through the campground using her car, in her nightgown, screaming at it to -GIT!!  Huh.  Well, it is very very quiet here but we have to say - we have never been all by ourself in a campground NOR been wakened in the morning with the rooster cock-a-doodle-dooing!  
These buildings in Gilbert are original - dates to 1900; the church was the
school and building on right was the Press (paper) building
One of the homes that are original, family still living in it
People came to the Gilbert area in the mid 1800s, and by 1900 the Missouri and North Arkansas Railroad came through. The town prospered, mining zinc, copper and ore.  Timber was cut and moved down river to Gilbert where the train moved it to the bigger cities to be processed.  By 1920 a Christian colony from the eastern states came and built most of the homes that are still standing.  At one time 4 stores, 2 banks, a cotton gin, grist mill, 3 doctors, school were flourishing.  After the end of World War II, the town began to decline.  Today only 33 people live here, but in the summer months, thousands flock to Gilbert to enjoy the Buffalo River.

Gilbert General Store - I like the compass painted on building,
original store from 1880's, still in use today

We are all alone
No one here but us chickens