Wednesday, November 19, 2014

Moved to Benson

The drive from Las Cruces, New Mexico to here, Benson, Arizona was quite uneventful.  Pretty much a straight line shot westward along interstate 10.  Had to climb up and over the Continental Divide and then started our decent into the San Pedro Valley here in Benson.  We are about 120 miles from our winter home but wanted to stop here for a few days to decompress and do some shopping and major cleaning before getting back to our winter home in Picacho.

Amazing thing is we are camping higher than the Continental Divide - sitting at 4800 plus feet in elevation.  Was a bit chilly last night but thankfully we only have a couple more nights of chilly weather and we will be back in Picacho.  The days are nice - high 60's - but cannot complain considering how bad things are elsewhere with the wind chills and heavy snow.

Our driving trip here was 243 miles which now when adding up all our mileage from this trip - is the longest miles driven on any trip since 2009.  And we visited more states than ever - 14, and camped in the most places - 24.

We are using our couple of days here at the Escapee SKP Saguaro park to do some last minute shopping for RV parts, visit to a quilt shop I like, and to get a feel of life here in this particular park.  We have stayed at a number of Escapee parks, each one is very different than the others.  This one is very quiet, a big park, but the difference between this Escapee park and others is you are permitted to have a casita (small house) on your lot which you can use for everything except sleeping in.  Cannot be bigger than 288 square feet.  You have to sleep in your RV at night.  Period.  Some people have put a lot of money into their casitas, where some only have a shed.  Some casitas have a living room, full bath, small kitchen, hide-a-bed but still - you cannot sleep overnight in it.  Another difference with this park is I believe the majority of RVs here are 5th wheels.  Some have 2 RVs where one stays here full-time and they travel with the second one.  Some folks live here full-time also.

Tomorrow is our really big pack up day - since Friday when we get back to Picacho we will be unloading everything out of here.  We also want to take the opportunity to clean the holding tanks out, wipe down all the walls, package up all the food stuff and arrange the clothes so it won't be painful when we pull up to our winter home to just unload from one to the other.  We also will make out our repair list so when we take the RV into the dealer next week for it's warranty work, we have all the things to fix/change out listed according to area.  Sad to have our trip end but what a great summer it was!

Sunday, November 16, 2014

Westward to Las Cruces, New Mexico

Had another very chilly night, as is all the rest of the country, and packed up yesterday morning and left Fort Stockton by 9am.  We had about 300 miles to put under the RV wheels, traveled entirely on Interstate 10 westbound.  Desolate, wide vista views, I would say not a pretty place, but never the less, if you have traveled all the way across Texas as we have now done, you can say - been there, hope not to do it again.  If you drove from one side of Texas to the other - staying on I 10 all the way - you would drive 895 miles.  Since we jogged a little up and down but pretty much stayed parallel to I 10, we put 1,127 miles on the RV.
Common sight - oil refineries
Stark dead trees 
Love the art on bridge abutments
Wide vista views

We did not see ranches or homes from the highway although every now and then saw water wind mills to draw up the water into troughs.  Did see cattle very sporadically but saw a lot of oil and gas wells, refineries.  The small towns we drove through were sad.  Saw homeless people huddled under bridges of some of the towns.  RV parks were scattered inside these towns, not sure what was to see if you stayed there for the winter - I guess do the big drive up and down to see Big Bend National Park a couple of times. Climbed in altitude to 4700 feet, right now we are at 3904 feet but will drop down to 1800 by the time we get to Picacho.

As we came into El Paso, we decided to gas up the RV so we would have a full tank when we left the park here in Las Cruces.  Good thing - we got stock in stand still traffic with an accident about 3 miles up ahead.  Could see the Mexican/American border from the highway - large brown iron fence along the Rio Grande River.  And was reminded about the cattle farms to the west of El Paso - and the stink!  Billboard after billboard lined the road.  Amazing.
Ciudad Juarez, Mexico - new X sculpture marking entrance
to Mexico - 197 feet tall
Border boundary 
Stinky cattle farms 
Lots of billboards
We changed to Mountain Time so now we can start getting adjusted to the time difference we will experience for the next couple of months while sitting at Picacho, Arizona.  Will stay here a few days, then move closer to winter home.  Hopefully we will get into the Escapee park in Benson - worth the $12 a night!

Friday, November 14, 2014

Around Historic Fort Stockton

The Army built Fort Stockton in 1858 to aid and assist the pioneers who were traveling through the region on their way to El Paso, to stifle the 'Indian aggressions" of the Comaches, provide a trading post along the Butterfield Stage Coach/mail route that ran from San Antonio to San Diego. After the Civil War the fort was abandoned but then reestablished in 1868 and was functional for the next 18 years.  At the height of the fort's existence 38 buildings stood but today only 8 remain.  Of those 8 only 4 can be visited.  There are 4 officers homes still intact but 3 of them are owned privately.

Look at the photos - amazing!
We have visited many forts and garrisons over the years but I am always amazed at the history that surrounds these places.  For example, again we learn that 3 divisions of the Buffalo Solders were stationed here, getting their initial training at Fort Huachuca in southern Arizona, not far from Tucson.  And one of the commanders of Fort Stockton was an amateur photographer and many of his pictures depicting life at the fort are on display.  Stunning to see actual photographs.

At one time this was a private residence!
Impressive
Too bad it has dried up
After visiting the fort we drove into the old section of town and visited the Annie Riggs Memorial Museum which is a hotel that once served this frontier town.  Today it stands as a memorial to the original settlers, how the area grew, and gives a history of the peoples.  Some of the rooms were turned into display rooms - one for businesses at the turn of the century, one for the religious history and the churches, one set up on how the hotel's rooms were furnished, etc.

Love the entrance door
Original decor

Courtyard between rooms
For hundreds of thousands years a natural spring ran above ground in Fort Stockton, one of the reasons the Army built their fort there - to have sustainable water.  Over grazing and farms drawing on the springs for irrigation has dried up the water supply.  The town took the main spring area and turned it into a swimming park but by 1965 the water was gone.  How sad.

We begin our picking up and putting things away/laundry/clean day today and tomorrow we move to Las Cruces, New Mexico for just a few days - about 290 miles from here due west.  We have been freezing here - that polar cold snap that hit most of the country has been here too.  Last two nights the temperature was a chilly 25, had to take up the water hoses and be self contained, using our own water tanks to get by.  Thankfully, its now moving eastward, todays high will be 55 and Saturday will be 75.

Tuesday, November 11, 2014

Day's Visit to Big Bend National Park

We just could not figure out how to get to Big Bend National Park: drive the RV south to a small town called Marathon and camp there, see Big Bend, then drive it back up after a couple of days;  because it is a long drive (129 miles from where we currently are) to forget about going there this time and maybe do it some other Texas trip; or - just buck up and drive the car down for a day's trip.  Decided to drive the car down and got on the road yesterday and drove and drove and drove and drove and got to the visitor's center of the park by 11:30am.  Watched the movie, talked with the rangers on best to see the park in one day, then scaddeled out to view what we could.

Big Bend National Park is larger than the state of Rhode Island.  It's big.  It's also the only national park that has a mountain range contained in it (Chisos Mountains). The park is known for it's wilderness, many trails all over the park which covers over 800,000 acres and borders Mexico with 118 miles, hugging the Rio Grande River. We got to the area called Chisos Basin which meant we had to climb up and over the Chisos Mountains and down into the crater left by a volcano that erupted over 250 million years ago.  Walked a nice scenic path that gave some vista views of the mountains, then drove down out of the mountains and decided to go see some other scenic overviews.  By this time it was 2:45pm and we thought we had better turn around and start back.  We do not like to drive in the dark and it would be at least another 2 plus hours back.

Majestic mountains
Hoo-doo type rocks
Our lunch spot
Vista views - Chisos Basin
Love the contrast
That gap is where the Rio Grande River carved
out a canyon 1500 feet deep
Abandoned farm
They say that the best time to visit is night time - the stars are amazing.  If we come back, we definitely would stay in the park, whether in the campground or overnight in the lodge, and see the stars.  But for now, we saw enough to say we have been there, done that.  Great vista views, very desolate and arid place, I am sure if we would have driven to the farthest western point, we would have been blown away with the Rio Grande River as it carved out a canyon over 1500 feet deep.  And the bird watching is rated one of the best in the nation.

Did not have the camera out fast enough to catch the javelina just munching on grass along the road - that one was big!!!  Saw scat of coyotes, prints of mountain lion (26 known in the park) and deer. Pretty day, but the altitude kicked our butts - rose to over 8000 feet.  Hearing the wind in the junipers and Douglas firs, seeing the agave plants with their tall flower, hearing the hawks scream overhead, feeling the cooler temperatures of the mountains, the vista views of over 100 miles.
Sotol, prickly pear, agaves 

Some of the stuff we saw of our drive in and out of the park - flood gages along the washes, dead cow (talk about large Texas roadkill!), checkpoint border patrol, wind mills near cattle pens, many many gas and oil pipe line facilities, mile after mile of ranches with their fancy entrance gateway with their brand labeled on the arch, desolate lonesome area.  Texas is a state of contrasts!

Flood gauges along road
Border patrol checkpoint
Wind mills 
Lots of pipe line facilities

Sunday, November 9, 2014

Arrived at Fort Stockton, Texas

Yesterday was a long day, drove from Kerrville, Texas to Fort Stockton, Texas - a distance of only 245 miles but forgot about the notorious west Texas wind.  Slammed us as soon as we got on Interstate 10, on our nose for a while then shifted to our right side (coming from the north to south direction) and every now and then would get a gust and we would be fighting to keep the RV in line.
Lots of these - did not see ranches or cattle
Nice rolling hills - no traffic!
Another Chimney Rock??
Took us about 80 miles to finally get out of the Hill Country which meant while we were in it we were up and down.  Not steep hills, just enough that the RV's engine would start whining, then over the hill and down we go.  What was surprising - hardly any traffic on the road AT ALL.  We were really on an interstate by ourselves.  Not complaining, just have never experienced that. And we never expected to see 80 miles an hour for the speed limit.  Wow.  And people were doing faster than that!
Yep - 80 mph!!!
Wind farms galore
Did I mention that Texas is a big state?  Really big.  And once we got out of hill country, flat.  Lots of wind farms along the way, and many farms had their own wind mill going, which meant there had to be cattle in the area but saw so few??

We were thinking of only staying here a couple of days, then picking up and head south to Big Bend National Park, on the border of Mexico, but have decided to just leave the RV here and drive the car south to visit.  So today I extended our visit to this Saturday, going to go to Big Bend tomorrow then plan to visit Historic Fort Stockton.  Our only commitment now is to be back in Picacho by the 29th when Dave has a check up at the doctor.  

Tuesday, November 4, 2014

Drive Through Texas Hill Country

No, Texas is not flat!  We left Bastrop yesterday morning and there are no interstate highways that would have taken us from A to B, instead drove a US route for most of the way through Texas Hill Country.  Up and down, not mountains, but hills and lots of them.  We were concerned that we were driving into a rain storm but it was just a cloudy windy day.  However, the forecast for the next two days is rain - flash flood advisory in affect now until tomorrow afternoon. Again saw some wonderful ironwork on gates to large ranches.  Once we dropped south of Austin, the geography became very hilly.

Passed through a town called Fredricksburg, home to Admiral Nimitz.  And also passed LB Johnson's National Historic Site, his final resting place, and museum and library dedicated to him.  Wasn't a long drive, only 146 miles, but I think Dave was worn out from all the hills and from the wind.  He would get caught coming around a curve in the road and gust would hit and he struggled to keep the RV straight.  We are 100 miles from San Antonio and 150 miles from Austin, the capital.  Camped now on the bank of the Guadalupe River in a town called Kerrville.  We chose this town because it was the last major city before the long drive to Fort Stockton.  If we need anything - they have it here.  Population is about 22K, so we should be able to find whatever we may need.

Hills!
Very fancy entranceway
Not big hills, just a lot of them!
Weird looking - no sign, could see it for miles
Old mesquite trees, scruffy landscape

Sunday, November 2, 2014

Busy Week, Move to Bastrop

What a CRAZY week we had while in Livingston, Texas!  Got car and RV inspected, licensed and tagged, then off to get our driver's licenses - after much running and looking for needed paperwork.  Thankfully, it all came together Thursday - done!  Phew.  Had to drive to Lufkin, about 45 miles north of Livingston, to visit Social Security because I did not have my social security card.  I have not had it for years - so ordered one.  But we are thankful that by the time we pulled out yesterday all was done except one item - and I am getting quotes for insurance on Monday.  Said our goodbyes to the Escapee park - had wanted to visit the headquarters since we became members 6 years ago.  And the visit was great - the folks there helped us all along the way, very knowledgeable, there to help.  Thank you Escapees.  And met some nice folks too.  Maybe some day we will meet up, Trish and Bruce - now full timers originally from Colorado, and Trish and Ben from California who are also full-timers now.  Safe travels and hope to meet again someday.
Escapees Entranceway - Rainbow Park
Lake Livingston
We had wanted to do some sightseeing while in Livingston - never got the chance.  As we drove westbound we did drive past Lake Livingston, a very very large lake.  Reminded me of Ohio.

Our drive to Bastrop was on state roads, did not have to go on interstates.  Amazing that we could wiggle south and west and not travel on those high speed roads.  Drove through College Park where Texas A & M college is - that's a big school!  Tail gating was going on - was a football day. Then on through small towns to here.  Bastrop had a huge fire 3 years ago and it seems that a big portion of the town has been burned.  So sad.
Mile after mile of burn
Saw many large farms along the way.  Many had elaborate iron gateway entrances.  Rocking R, Double T, Rolling W, Lazy This, Lazy That, Pine This, Circle That, etc.  You get the picture.  And have to have lots of cows.  The homes on these farms were reminiscent of The "Dallas" TV show - was looking for JR Ewing to come riding along.  Did I tell you Texas is big?  We are still in the eastern part of Texas, haven't gotten half way across.  If we drove an hour we would be in Austin, the capital.  Or 1 hour southwest and we would be in San Antonio.  Just glad we are in warm weather.
Had trouble finding a campsite - did not know that the Formula One racing is going on - about a 20 minute drive from here and this is serious business!  From this location the racers go to Dubai! They had been in Australia, China, not sure where else.  Only here for a couple of days, visited friends here and will move on Monday towards Kerrville.

Love the entrance ways

Saturday, October 25, 2014

To Be a Texan Or Not?

We drove from Vidalia, Louisiana yesterday morning to Livingston, Texas which is about 60 miles north east of Houston.  268 miles later we are sitting at the Escapee's Rainbow's End campground, which is a campground for Escapee members only.  But, the tug boat Sonny came by to say goodbye yesterday morning before we left.  The one thing I won't miss is the traffic on the Mississippi - at night you can hear the deep rumble of the engines as it labors to move barges up the river.  And hear it for a long long time after it's gone from view.

Many homes had Plantation sign on them
Here at the campground is the headquarters of Escapees and we want to sit with them on Monday and talk to see if it is feasible for us to switch our residency from Ohio to Texas.  We have no intention of coming back to Ohio long term, only short visits and why not see about Texas?  Since we had to drive through Texas to get back to Arizona, why not stop here?  Weird to see so many RVers with Texas plates when we know most of them are not from Texas originally.  The folks across from us are from the Columbus, Ohio area originally.  Lady I met in the laundry was from Boston, Mass. and has been full-timing for 12 years, coming back to Rainbow's End every winter.  Again, she has no intention of going back to Massachusetts, and she said she has not been back there in 6 years but she is licensed in Texas.
Many logging trucks
One of the things that stood out about our drive here yesterday - did not know that this north eastern part of the state was so hilly and mostly pine trees.  Tall oaks, lots of greenery.  Even a town we went through - Pineville, and another Woodville.   Logging trucks galore.  We thought maybe we were back in the western part of Washington.  But first, we drove through Louisiana - very pretty, lots of very poor communities, many plantations drove past.  Cotton everywhere to be picked.  And flat.  But once we got near the border of Texas, the geography changed considerably.  Crossed over a couple of lakes caused from dams being built and one was pretty flooded - saw tops of trees sticking up. Another thing we have to get used to - Texas names their roads by numbers but with an FM in front of it meaning - Farm to Market.  Our ride here from Louisisana was all state routes or national routes.  One particular road was Route 84 also known as the El Camino Real road.  For the most part was a nice drive and hardly any traffic.  Bad times only in the small towns where the roads were narrow and the pavement bumpy.
Definitely flooded
We only have plans to talk with the people-in-the-know, there is not much to see and do around here, so we will maximize our time with getting our questions answered, hopefully.  Will stay until this coming Friday and then head more west.

Thursday, October 23, 2014

Visiting Natchez

Wanted to spend our last day today here with a visit to Natchez.  There is a walking tour you can do passing all the historical buildings and happenings with well marked directions placed on the pavement, or you can walk the Blues Trail which takes you by the places that play an important part in the making of the Mississippi Blues music.  Nature trails take you along the old Natchez-Under-The-Hill where thriving illicit, immoral markets were common up to 1863 and the Emancipation of Blacks.
Beautiful! On bluff overlooking Mississippi
A walk along bluffs - private homes 
Private garden 
Private home overlooking Mississippi
Natchez has done it right.  I felt such pride and respect for history in this city.  In two years the town will be celebrating it's 300th year founding (under Spanish rule then) and you can tell how everyone is sprucing up their buildings.  The gardens of some of the homes are just as amazing.  Wrought iron fencing, gates, upper balconies.  Walked along the bluff overlooking the Mississippi, saw private homes.  Some needed TLC while two others were bed-and-breakfast places.

Love the architecture
Would love to know the history

Private home
Rosalie Mansion, 1823, open for tours
As we drove around getting acclimated, we saw many private homes, some open for tours which we did not do.  The William Johnson home who was a freed slave and was famous for being the barber of Natchez and having 5 other businesses, is under the National Park protection, and it too was being painted and buffed - we think in preparation for the 300th anniversary - so we could not visit the grounds.  At the Forks-In-The-Road area, the second largest slave auctions were held in the south, the first being New Orleans, read about the history and what happened.  Sad history.  Saw some very old dilapidated homes, and if they could speak, would love to hear their history.  Have many pictures of historical buildings, won't bore you.
Holly Hedges - 1830 - for daughter of Melrose Mansion's owner
(wedding gift)
William Johnson home (back of)
Texada, first brick building of Mississippi 1792
We leave in the morning for Livingston, Texas, staying at the Escapee's headquarters campground to talk about mail service, etc.  Natchez has been a great town to visit and I would love to come back someday.