Thursday, July 11, 2013

Cape Flattery and the Makah Indian Culture

Makah Cultural Center
We have visited the most southern points of the country - Key West, Florida and Brownsville, Texas; the most eastern point - Lubec, Maine; the furthest north - International Falls, Minnesota; the most southern point on the western coast - San Diego, California; and now the most northern point on the west coast - Cape Flattery, Washington.  The only thing to do is go to the most western point which is go to Cape Mendocino near Eureka, California.  Talk about extremes in terms of climate, population, temperatures.

We took a chance yesterday on the weather and drove an hour and 45 minutes to Neah Bay which is on the Makah Indian Nation's land.  We drove along the border of Olympic National Park for most of an hour then headed north towards the tip of Washington.  Passed glacier lakes and will come back to visit them another time.  When we visited the Olympic National Park's (ONP) visitor center we were told to first stop at the Makah's Visitor Center, see the museum and purchase a pass which allows you to access Cape Flattery's nature trail which takes you to a magnificent lookout over the ocean and the Tatoosh Lighthouse.  This area is right at the beginning of the Strait of Juan De Fuca and also meets the Pacific Ocean.  Neah Bay houses a Coast Guard Station as well as the main village for the Makah Indians, on the Strait.  Some thriving businesses as well as some very sad looking places were noted.

Could not take pictures inside the museum.  The Makah Indians lived in this region for at least a thousand years and lived in long houses made of cedar to protect from the rains.  I remember reading in the journals of Lewis and Clark that the winter they spent at Fort Clatsop on the Pacific were pretty much spent in constant rain.  We asked the gentleman who manned the desk at the museum about the climate and he said - sometimes it rains for 45 days straight, sometimes it is a gentle rain and sometimes a hard driving rain.  No thunderstorms, just rain.  When we got to the museum it was overcast, cool.  Was disappointed that there wasn't sun but after hearing this - glad we didn't have  rain.

Tatoosh Lighthouse - Cape Flattery
The museum houses the collection of artifacts from the Ozette location which is on the Pacific about 10 miles south of Cape Flattery.  The Makahs depended on fishing and whaling and also gathered plants but they lived on the shores of the ocean.  In 1970 erosion from the Pacific unearthed a village with longhouses, articles for every day use such as tools, clothing, eating utensils, furniture, etc. dating back at least 500 years.   For the next 11 years after the discovery,  an archaeological dig continued until all was removed, catalogued and given to the Makah nation where they housed artifacts in their museum for the public to view.  Very impressive museum, developed and shown in a circular building depicting the 4 seasons of the life and each facet of their lives.  Today the nation is revitalizing their language and teaching the young skills of the past.  The other significance to us - one of the points of interest for ONP was to visit the Ozette location on the Pacific which we will not do now, after the dig was finished they back filled the location so there is nothing other than the ocean's beach to see.

Pacific Ocean and coast line from lookout
After the museum we drove from Neah Bay to Cape Flattery where you could hike a 1/2 mile trail to the overlook of Tatoosh Island where the lighthouse is located.  And the sun was out and it was so pretty.  Did not see whales or puffins but did see a bald eagle and lots of sea birds.  The trail was rated strenuous because you dropped down 250 feet to the overlook point and of course - you had to walk back up.  Not good for people with bad knees, weak ankles, or problem back (it said).  And - they were right.  Wasn't a friendly trail but worth our time and effort
Scenic overlook - looking north to Canada

Driving back home we stopped along the way at different pullovers or scenic views for spotting whales. One thing remains of the overlooks - fog cleared and you could see the coast mountains of Canada.  And freighters coming and going.  Long day but well worth the trip.

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