Living Our Dream: Riding the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad

We did it, traveled on the entire 64 miles of the scenic railroad. Picked a beautiful, clear day, got to the depot in Chama by 8:15am, boarded a bus (ironic that the bus line is out of Tucson and our driver spends his winters in Tucson), and drove to Antonito, arriving by 9:45am. We had specific car and seat assignments, found our seats, got acclimated, and the 5 minute departure whistle happened (4 toots) and we waited impatiently for the train to go. Smooth ride. Top speed is only 12 miles an hour, but still. Second train ride for us, the first being in Ely, Nevada on their historic train.

At Chama, will board bus to Antonito

We are here, on train looking through window

Inside parlor car (private party booked this)

Looking through one car to another, beautifully restored

And we are off - through sage brush/BLM land

Chama was settled in 1865 and by 1880 when the San Juan Extension of the Denver & Rio Grande Railway reached Antonito, the push to build tracks to Chama began. Took 9 months to go 64 miles, using a narrow gauge (3 feet instead of standard 4 feet 8 inches) the men had to survey, lay track, grade and build station houses and telegraph stations every 7 miles and also to climb a 4 percent grade out of Chama, utilizing switchbacks to efficiently get up and over Cumbres Pass.

315 work train coming about 2 miles behind us

Hello Miss Elk

These 3 ATVers (and dog) would see again

Scenery changed to alpine/sub-alpine, gorgeous, climbing higher

The train moved equipment, supplies, and passengers until the 1950s. By 1967 the trains and track were abandoned. In 1970 a 2 state commission was set up and the Friends of the C&TS took over. A couple of movies used the trains as well as tracks for their sets - two more famous: Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade (Harrison Ford), and Where the Hell's That Gold (Willie Nelson). But, Willie accidentally blew up a trestle while filming and he paid to have it rebuilt. Oops.

Sublette peaking out, almost center of picture

A family with 13 kids lived in this house

Big pow-wow, taking on water at Sublette

Would have been cute to have pictures of the 13 kids painted in windows!

We had many choices to ride the train but chose the all-day, leaving Antonito, stopping in the ghost town of Osier around 1pm, then continuing on to Chama, arriving at 4pm. We had a nice car to be in, was able to go to the open gondola car if want to, and you had access to the rest of the train while moving except the rear car (parlor) which was reserved for special parties. We all got there at the same time - no problem. Had an assistant on board who served drinks and snacks, very informative and explained what we were to see, history, etc.

Abandoned telegraph stations every 7 miles

Entering the Mud Tunnel

First came through sage brush, saw a cow elk, lots of pronghorns, but barren - BLM land used for grazing. We did switchbacks, went over various trestles, and after awhile, started to see the change in the environment, we were climbing to over 10,000 feet. Just gorgeous!

By this time many people standing in gondola watching world go by

Viewed rivers flowing below, stopped at Sublette which is an abandoned section home and buildings to house the crews (they were responsible for 7 miles of track), took on water, waited for the 315 work train which was behind us to catch up (the water tender for fires was behind it). Through 2 tunnels, one made of lava ash and mud, the other cut through solid rock, saw the President Garfield's monument (another link to Ohio!), through Phantom Curve, and arrived in Osier, a ghost town, and had a buffet lunch which was part of ticket price, very good food! After one hour the 5 minute warning whistled and we got back on the train and continued on to Chama.

Through Phantom Pass

Releasing steam/water

Into Rock tunnel

Toltec Gorge

Garfield's Memorial

Rocky Mountain High!

Traveled through the area where we had stopped on the previous car trip and took pictures of the train heading to Chama, now we were on it! We learned that this large curve is called Tanglefoot Curve where builders had to lay track in wide loops to gain 39 feet of elevation. Chugged up to Cumbres Pass, let off passengers who boarded buses back to Chama instead of finishing up the ride, and got to Chama on time. Lots of wildlife, saw more elk, deer, sheep, marmots. Wonderful day, thoroughly enjoyed it but we were exhausted from the ride, swaying back and forth for over 6 hours.