Visit Around Sequim

We spent the first two days here getting caught up with groceries, pet food shopping, banking, truck in for normal servicing and visited the Olympic National Park's visitor center in Port Angeles, a town 12 miles to the west of us to get orientated to the park.  So much to see there - will have to study and determine what we can and won't do.  Things are gearing up here in Sequim (SKWIM) for the Lavender Festival which is a 3 day festival starting the 19th.  Since the climate conditions here are perfect for growing lavender, lavender is a normal perennial flower growing in just about everyone's garden and on the roadside and planted around commercial buildings.  Even here at the campground you find this plant in many of the side gardens.  Pretty smelling too!  There are 5 commercial lavender gardens in the area and during the festival you can tour all 5.

An Ah-ha! we discovered in Sequim - there is a John Wayne Marina located just on the east end of the town and yes, it is named for the Duke.  According to the info given to us as a welcome package, he loved sailing his Wild Goose here in the Sequim area and donated the land for the development of the marina. I assumed the Wild Goose - from the way the town's visitor paper describes it - was a small sailboat, but not.   I did not know anything about it and found this video on YouTube about the boat.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qbvzxcQCJWg   Wow.

Another ah-ha - is actor and AT&T spokesman Cliff Robertson also frequented this area and there is a road named after him. He visited here in Sequim and later in his life he moved here after retirement.

Spending a little bit of time in Port Angeles which is a seaport on the Strait of Juan De Fuca (body of water connecting the Pacific Ocean and the Pugent Sound of Seattle) you see a Coast Guard Station on the tip of the port and a big bustling lumber company processing large tree trunks and getting them ready for shipping out via the freighters.  No railroad comes into the peninsula so we don't hear any trains - thank goodness.  The fog is something - mornings are typically fogged in and in Sequim it burns off by 10am.  There are 300 days of sunshine, hence the city is knicknamed "Sunny Sequim." Not so in Port Angeles - the two days we have been there - fog has lingered all times of day.  And wind - wind off the Pacific Ocean blowing all the time.  Very cool nights - down to 50, days so far have been low 70s.  Pleasant, and even nippy at times.

There is so much to see and do but one thing we have to plan: just to get to some of the places at Olympic National Park is a good 2 to 3 hour drive one way.  No roads circumnavigate around the park so it's drive for hours to see, then drive back.  We would not even consider bringing the RV closer since the roads are very twisty turn and hugs cliffs.  Will just have to plan those visits with early get goings.

Drive to Sequim

Flowers along road

We packed up and left Packwood and at the last minute Mt. Rainier who came out in her glory to say goodbye (sniffle), and drove west along US route 12 towards Interstate 5.   That leg of the trip was a quick 50 minutes but of course, the wildflowers on display along the roadway was beautiful.  Hope we get to see more on the next month.

Got on I5 and traveled north to Tumway, a city right before Olympia (the capital) and broke off to US 101 which travels up Pugent Sound on the west side.  Talk about a windy twisty road.  Was sure when we opened the RV back up that everything would be trashed inside, being thrown around as we whipped from one side to the next along the coast.  In and out of small little seaside resort towns with a lot of people.  Had to be wary of cars moving in and out of parking spots right at the road.  Some small narrow bridges were a bit tricky to maneuver also, but we made it without any problems. 206 miles and a little over 4 hours later we are nestled in at Rainbow's End RV Park, a small tightly packed place, and towards the back of it.  Good thing I made reservations some time ago - only 5 spots can have their vehicle parked on their site otherwise, you move your car to a parking area.

Tide out - people digging

The tide was out and saw many people clamming or crabbing - not sure what they were doing other than digging in the mud and had buckets putting something into.  Something to find out about at the visitors center here in town.  Saw boats sitting on their sides resting on the mud and boats anchored a way out.  Probably have small skiffs or rowboats to get from shore out and back.  And the amount of traffic specifically RVs and play toys coming at us eastbound - returning from a long holiday weekend heading home towards Seattle.

We are in a town called Sequim, pronounced SQUIM, and will be here for a month.  Top day temps are between 70 and 75, nights low 50s.  As I looked out the window late yesterday afternoon, I could see Olympic National Park and the snow capped mountains.  And raining there.  Sequim is situated in a rain shadow of the mountains meaning that it is relatively dry here while other areas around us get lots of rain.  That's good!  Have so much to see and do, we need to learn about the ferries because we want to visit Friday Harbor,
 an island in the middle of the Strait of Juan De Fuca - the body of water from the Pacific Ocean which flows down into Seattle.  Big ocean going seaport.  And we are about a mile due south of the Strait - so we get the winds off the ocean and of course the fog.  Was bright and sunny this morning and now we are socked in - sorta reminds us of San Francisco area.

Wildflowers in Mt. Rainier NP

Magenta Indian Paintbrush

We did our last 'to do' for our visit to Mt. Rainier National Park before we left - went looking for wildflowers.  We found many but were told by a volunteer ranger at Tipsoo Lake that August 1st is the best time to be here. What we did get to experience is snow, and lots of it, the changing of the weather by hour, the melt of the snow causing great waterfalls plus the glimpse of what would happen by the beginning of August - flowers every where! As you travel along the road there are splashes of color here and there.  Flowers seem to be growing out of the rocks, along the edge of the road, in ditches, across meadows, every where.  Our last photo op was seeing white and lilac and pink and magenta phlox just hanging on the sides of cliffs.  How beautiful!

Tipsoo Lake and Mt. Rainier

Drove back up the eastern side of the park to Chinook Pass where we saw two weeks ago rain, fog, heavy snow, and everything socked in.  Could only imagine what we would find at the end of our stay.  Tipsoo Lake had a bit of ice still on it but the snow is really melting fast. Little bits of color peeking up out of the ground that gave you a taste of how pretty this place will be in a couple of weeks.  The ranger said that if we thought there were visitors now, just wait till then.  I went nuts with the camera - the flowers we did get to see were beautiful.  Lots of people trying to walk on what snow is left, it is very mushy and slippery.  And in some places still quite deep.

Subalpine Glacier Lily

As we think back to our two weeks here, our favorite place of all in the park was Grove of the Patriarchs.  Lush greenery, the smell of the forest, heavy dew on the branches, moss as thick as your fist, trees growing out of dead trees, the birds chirping, fast flowing river, a free-standing bridge over the river, just magnificent.  I really loved our time here. What little hiking we did was great, informative, but limited because of the snow pack.  Mt. Rainier has certainly planned this park right with pull offs where there is a vista view or a waterfall.  The one drawback if you want to do long term hiking, which we don't, parking is a premium at trailheads.  Was a bit disappointed in the Longmire Lodge because we have been used to old, rustic Alpine style lodges in other parks and this particular one was fairly new.  Didn't have the character that we have been used to.

On the other side, we lucked out with finding a camp ground not far from the entrance to the park - 7 miles away.  Even though we put miles on the truck driving around in the park, we were not far from home.  We also got to see the mountain 'out' and then not out, then out again. Yesterday the mountain was socked in - even snowed on top in the morning, today it is clear and bright.  Today's drive up to the Pass allowed us to see the mountain one more time and you can certainly see the blue of the glaciers - very distinct.

Phlox

Tomorrow morning we leave to go to Sequim which is on the Olympic peninsula, west of Seattle, near Olympic National Park. About a 185 miles from here. Will be there for a month and the great thing is that tomorrow by noon we will be back in cell service.  Was weird not to have any service for two weeks, but was able to get on the internet to keep communication open.  Sad to say goodbye to Packwood.  Great place to come for a vacation.  Will miss the kids (elk) who are in and around the campground every day, and night.  Grace has loved keeping tabs on them.  Everything you could want is here; and, if you have cell service, life would be terrific.

Quiet 4th and Hike to Packwood Lake

We spent a quiet 4th of July around the RV, catching up on stuff - computer, photo editing, sewing, laundry, cleaning.  We feel that we have seen all we want to see of Mt. Rainier and yet, today, we decided to hike to Packwood Lake, and inland lake that was formed by glacier melt thousands of years ago.

Casual Hike to Packwood Lake

But first, the 4th in Packwood:  since the towns around here get together and combine their fireworks into one display in the next town of Randle called "The Big Bottom Blast" (I chuckle every time I think of all this, the big bottom women (and men) that are gather in one place), we opted not to drive there to watch it.  We saw an amazing fireworks the previous Saturday night and were okay not going.  All the crazies that bought fireworks for themselves, well, they started about 6pm setting them off around this town and I think the last one was midnight.  There were two enormous booms that sounded like dynamite - shook us and the RV.  A little frightening.  Hope tonight is much quieter, poor Gracie trembled tucked up next to me on the bed - she was very scared.

Avalanche Lily

We have only these two last days before we head out to the Olympic Peninsula, west of Seattle, on Sunday and had two more things we wanted to do before leaving Packwood, one of them hiking to Packwood Lake.  Only made it a little into two miles before heading back, two reasons for returning:  one, the mosquitoes were getting pretty aggressive even with our bug spray on, and two, my foot was beginning to bother me so we opted to start back.  Passed groups of people and their dogs hiking to the Lake and possibly beyond, loaded up with their gear strapped across their backs.  And day hikers coming and going. Not disappointed about not making it all the way to the Lake  (4 1/2 miles one way), instead had a nice casual hike in the Northwest woods. The wildflowers are just beginning to show - my favorite is the avalanche lily.

Move Elk!

Path started out up hill for the first two miles before you started the gradual decline down.  Said how much easier it will be on the return since we went uphill steadily, although not a rugged walk and the path is very well worn and flat for the most part, just kept going up and up.  Very pretty walk, a few birds singing, the forest smell wasn't pronounced because this forest was not old - the trees may have been cut down 50 years ago or so for logging and then seedlings put in.  Very few old, huge trees, probably missed by the loggers.  And some decay only not as pronounced - moss, lichen, downed trees, small bushes.  But definitely not old forest.

This whole area is very lovely and if we lived closer, I could see living here in the late spring to early fall.  The  big thing we have not seen - animals.  Yes, we have our resident elk herd that is by us every day, and today we saw an elk in the road as we were coming back from the Lake with more right by the road's edge, but no deer, have heard coyotes at night, no rabbits. We hear lots of birds Strange about the animals.

Longmire and Wildflowers

One more day into Mt. Rainier National Park to see some more sights and to spend time stopping to take pictures and hopefully see wildflowers.  The first day we visited the park it was raining and visibility was very low so we could only guess at what might be beyond the mist and clouds.  We were not disappointed in the views.

Hot Springs at Longmire

Came into the park via the Nisqually Entrance which is the west side entrance and stopped again at Longmire Visitors Center.  There is a Trail of the Shadows walk across the road from the center and the ranger said it was a pleasant .7 mile walk with interpretive signs.  I had read that back in the 1880's the Longmire family settled where the visitor center is now and started a hotel for visitors.  What I didn't know is that there were hot springs which is the main reason why they chose that place.  Smelled and looked like we were in Yellowstone National Park again - the sulphur (rotten egg) smell and the rust colored ground  and steam vents with hot bubbling water all around.  Which means - we have an active volcano right in front of us.  Very humbling.  Made those signs we have seen 'volcano evacuation route' more meaningful.

Walked the trail and was delighted at all the fauna and smells and birds singing.  If you don't walk any other trail in the park, you would get a good flavor of the ancient forest sights and smells with this quick little walk.  Amazing that when you are out of the forest the temperature is at least 10 degrees warmer. Warm day again - about 15 degrees above normal - was about 86 in full sun. Could stay in the forest my whole life - the coolness, the sounds of the birds, the smell of the conifer trees, the peacefulness of being among the giant trees - a slice of heaven.

Pretty wildflowers!

After our walk our next goal was to head east bound towards Box Canyon which is a very deep narrow canyon with a fast moving river running through the bottom of it. All along the road you would see bright red flowers and purple and lilac flowers, bright orange, white bells, yellow flowers - just beginning to entice you to stick around for the grand show in about two more weeks.

Reflection Lake

Stopped at Reflection Lake - still quite a lot of snow around the lake but the lake was open.  Caught a great shot of Rainier in the lake's reflection.  Another week and you won't have to worry about any snow.  Stopped at Paradise Visitors Center and was shocked at how fast the snow has melted.  Lots of people - and it will get more crowded with the holiday coming. Paradise is called thus because a visitor remarked that the area was paradise with all the wildflowers abounding.  Another two weeks and it will be paradise for sure.

Mt. St. Helens

At Box Canyon we did the 1/2 mile interpretive walk.  As we stood over the bridge and looked down 120 feet to the river and gorge we both said - hmmmm- slot canyon! The difference being the slot canyon is formed from limestone and sandstone and has entrance and exit where a box canyon has three sides - the river was falling down into the canyon and out. The wow factor - when we stood on the bridge looking down into the canyon then looked up - Mt. St. Helens was staring back at us - only I thought it was Rainier realized that it wasn't.  Wow.

Scenic Drive and Wood Mill

We made yesterday a low key day, decided to drive one of the scenic drives stated in a brochure we were given.  The drive took us north from Packwood and turned just west of the entrance to Mt. Rainier National Park, then headed west to a small town of Elbe then headed south and turned east again once we got to Morton.  A big circle out west of Mt. Rainier and back.

Mineral Lake

I imagine that when the wildflowers are out or in the fall with the leaves changing, would be quite pretty but we did see many summer homes tucked away in the mountains and lots of small creeks and streams with water really rushing due to the snow melt.  We stopped in a small town of Elbe for some coffee and saw a pretty little church listed on the national register for historic places.  Again, blink and you would pass right through Elbe.

Volcano Evacuation Route Sign

I wanted us to visit Mineral Lake, a small alpine lake that was recommended that we visit.  Very pretty, very idyllic.  Kids swimming, row boats, people fishing by the banks, power boats, paddle boats, saw a campground at one end of the lake.  Asked someone how deep is the lake and he thought about 500 feet.  Yikes!  I could see huge trees underwater, the water was that clear.  Cute little town and could see where this town is definitely a summer retreat for those in Seattle, about 80 miles away.  Lots and lots of  small lakes abound around here.  Hard pressed to decide which is prettier.

Lumber truck getting unloaded

Drove on to Morton.  Saw a huge lumber mill called Hampton Lumber - took some pictures.  Big business.  Passed other Hampton Lumber mills in small towns we passed through. Finished our drive and headed back east to Packwood.  A "volcano evacuation route" sign caught my eye in the morning as we were heading out - oh my goodness, haven't thought in terms of something like that.  We are very close also to Mt. St. Helens National Park and saw the turn off to visit there, so I guess you could evacuate with Rainier or Helens.  This area is called the volcanic ring - Mt. Hood, Mt. St. Helens, and Mt. Rainier.  Who knows when the next eruption will be?

Casual Hike to Sand Lake

Leech Lake

Ranger and helper on horseback

We drove back east on US 12 to the White Pass Mountain Ski Resort area, about 15 miles from Packwood to a trail head for Sand Lake.  Parked at the serene Leech Lake where we saw kayakers and fishing people out drifting.  Pretty. We chose this hike because it is part of the Pacific Crest Trail that transverses Canada to Mexico and this is the closest to the Mt. Rainier that it comes.  The hike was rated easy, family friendly, elevation gain of 820 feet, and if we made it to Sand Lake which is a alpine lake only reached by hiking or horseback, it was 7 miles round trip.  A bit far for us but wanted to experience the PCT - if it was that easy - maybe we could do it.  Along the hike you come to Deer Lake first, then on to Sand Lake.

Encountered snow pack

The elevation gain we felt was way more than the 820 feet.  By the time we reached the summit of the mountain where you then drop down into a meadow and on to Deer Lake  (I think about 2 miles in), we started to run into snow pack.  Weird sensation - you are sweating from the 84 degrees, mosquitoes biting, birds chirping, smell of pine forest, hear little brooks and streams and falls, and bam - heavy hard snow pack.  We had crossed paths with a ranger and an aide on horseback, coming back from Sand Lake who was making sure the path was clear to Sand Lake and beyond - he said that you cannot go beyond Sand Lake - snow is just impassible.  And he had to find a path in by the 18th because he was bringing in a group of people by horses. They were returning to the parking lot to board up the horses to take them around to another entrance to Sand Lake and try to come in from that side. Yesterday would have been a long day for those horses!

We also passed other hikers coming back from an overnight near Sand Lake, said that snow is way deep and the mosquitoes are as big as horses.  Thank goodness we have bug repellent - we offered the use of the spray to one guy who had run out of it and was getting chewed up.  On our way back we could hear voices coming from behind and we typically stop and wait for whoever to pass. Got a little nervous when it looked like a wolf coming along the path towards us - she was the pet dog of the group of 3 coming back from Deer Lake where they were fishing.

Wolf? 

The path was well worn although a bit rocky in places. Well marked, through old growth forest, the birds chirping, hearing the trees rustle with the wind, the smell of the forest - neat.  Can't say this was a favorite walk since the path was a bit rugged and mud covered from the recent snow melt - had to do a lot of dodging.  The smells and sights and sounds were more pronounced at the Grove of the Patriarchs from the other day.  We are happy that we accomplished a goal for this trip - to walk the Pacific Crest Trail for a bit.

Rimrock Lake

After the walk we stopped at a couple of overlooks of Mt. Rainier and also tried to find Clear Lake, a glacier lake right near US 12 about 10 miles east of here.  Could see the lake but could not find where to pull off to view it better.  Absolutely exhausted when we got back but good day near Mt. Rainier.And - looking out our back window of the RV - Rainier with no clouds!  Amazing.

Mt. Rainier with no clouds!