Wildflowers in Mt. Rainier NP

Magenta Indian Paintbrush

We did our last 'to do' for our visit to Mt. Rainier National Park before we left - went looking for wildflowers.  We found many but were told by a volunteer ranger at Tipsoo Lake that August 1st is the best time to be here. What we did get to experience is snow, and lots of it, the changing of the weather by hour, the melt of the snow causing great waterfalls plus the glimpse of what would happen by the beginning of August - flowers every where! As you travel along the road there are splashes of color here and there.  Flowers seem to be growing out of the rocks, along the edge of the road, in ditches, across meadows, every where.  Our last photo op was seeing white and lilac and pink and magenta phlox just hanging on the sides of cliffs.  How beautiful!

Tipsoo Lake and Mt. Rainier

Drove back up the eastern side of the park to Chinook Pass where we saw two weeks ago rain, fog, heavy snow, and everything socked in.  Could only imagine what we would find at the end of our stay.  Tipsoo Lake had a bit of ice still on it but the snow is really melting fast. Little bits of color peeking up out of the ground that gave you a taste of how pretty this place will be in a couple of weeks.  The ranger said that if we thought there were visitors now, just wait till then.  I went nuts with the camera - the flowers we did get to see were beautiful.  Lots of people trying to walk on what snow is left, it is very mushy and slippery.  And in some places still quite deep.

Subalpine Glacier Lily

As we think back to our two weeks here, our favorite place of all in the park was Grove of the Patriarchs.  Lush greenery, the smell of the forest, heavy dew on the branches, moss as thick as your fist, trees growing out of dead trees, the birds chirping, fast flowing river, a free-standing bridge over the river, just magnificent.  I really loved our time here. What little hiking we did was great, informative, but limited because of the snow pack.  Mt. Rainier has certainly planned this park right with pull offs where there is a vista view or a waterfall.  The one drawback if you want to do long term hiking, which we don't, parking is a premium at trailheads.  Was a bit disappointed in the Longmire Lodge because we have been used to old, rustic Alpine style lodges in other parks and this particular one was fairly new.  Didn't have the character that we have been used to.

On the other side, we lucked out with finding a camp ground not far from the entrance to the park - 7 miles away.  Even though we put miles on the truck driving around in the park, we were not far from home.  We also got to see the mountain 'out' and then not out, then out again. Yesterday the mountain was socked in - even snowed on top in the morning, today it is clear and bright.  Today's drive up to the Pass allowed us to see the mountain one more time and you can certainly see the blue of the glaciers - very distinct.

Phlox

Tomorrow morning we leave to go to Sequim which is on the Olympic peninsula, west of Seattle, near Olympic National Park. About a 185 miles from here. Will be there for a month and the great thing is that tomorrow by noon we will be back in cell service.  Was weird not to have any service for two weeks, but was able to get on the internet to keep communication open.  Sad to say goodbye to Packwood.  Great place to come for a vacation.  Will miss the kids (elk) who are in and around the campground every day, and night.  Grace has loved keeping tabs on them.  Everything you could want is here; and, if you have cell service, life would be terrific.

Quiet 4th and Hike to Packwood Lake

We spent a quiet 4th of July around the RV, catching up on stuff - computer, photo editing, sewing, laundry, cleaning.  We feel that we have seen all we want to see of Mt. Rainier and yet, today, we decided to hike to Packwood Lake, and inland lake that was formed by glacier melt thousands of years ago.

Casual Hike to Packwood Lake

But first, the 4th in Packwood:  since the towns around here get together and combine their fireworks into one display in the next town of Randle called "The Big Bottom Blast" (I chuckle every time I think of all this, the big bottom women (and men) that are gather in one place), we opted not to drive there to watch it.  We saw an amazing fireworks the previous Saturday night and were okay not going.  All the crazies that bought fireworks for themselves, well, they started about 6pm setting them off around this town and I think the last one was midnight.  There were two enormous booms that sounded like dynamite - shook us and the RV.  A little frightening.  Hope tonight is much quieter, poor Gracie trembled tucked up next to me on the bed - she was very scared.

Avalanche Lily

We have only these two last days before we head out to the Olympic Peninsula, west of Seattle, on Sunday and had two more things we wanted to do before leaving Packwood, one of them hiking to Packwood Lake.  Only made it a little into two miles before heading back, two reasons for returning:  one, the mosquitoes were getting pretty aggressive even with our bug spray on, and two, my foot was beginning to bother me so we opted to start back.  Passed groups of people and their dogs hiking to the Lake and possibly beyond, loaded up with their gear strapped across their backs.  And day hikers coming and going. Not disappointed about not making it all the way to the Lake  (4 1/2 miles one way), instead had a nice casual hike in the Northwest woods. The wildflowers are just beginning to show - my favorite is the avalanche lily.

Move Elk!

Path started out up hill for the first two miles before you started the gradual decline down.  Said how much easier it will be on the return since we went uphill steadily, although not a rugged walk and the path is very well worn and flat for the most part, just kept going up and up.  Very pretty walk, a few birds singing, the forest smell wasn't pronounced because this forest was not old - the trees may have been cut down 50 years ago or so for logging and then seedlings put in.  Very few old, huge trees, probably missed by the loggers.  And some decay only not as pronounced - moss, lichen, downed trees, small bushes.  But definitely not old forest.

This whole area is very lovely and if we lived closer, I could see living here in the late spring to early fall.  The  big thing we have not seen - animals.  Yes, we have our resident elk herd that is by us every day, and today we saw an elk in the road as we were coming back from the Lake with more right by the road's edge, but no deer, have heard coyotes at night, no rabbits. We hear lots of birds Strange about the animals.

Longmire and Wildflowers

One more day into Mt. Rainier National Park to see some more sights and to spend time stopping to take pictures and hopefully see wildflowers.  The first day we visited the park it was raining and visibility was very low so we could only guess at what might be beyond the mist and clouds.  We were not disappointed in the views.

Hot Springs at Longmire

Came into the park via the Nisqually Entrance which is the west side entrance and stopped again at Longmire Visitors Center.  There is a Trail of the Shadows walk across the road from the center and the ranger said it was a pleasant .7 mile walk with interpretive signs.  I had read that back in the 1880's the Longmire family settled where the visitor center is now and started a hotel for visitors.  What I didn't know is that there were hot springs which is the main reason why they chose that place.  Smelled and looked like we were in Yellowstone National Park again - the sulphur (rotten egg) smell and the rust colored ground  and steam vents with hot bubbling water all around.  Which means - we have an active volcano right in front of us.  Very humbling.  Made those signs we have seen 'volcano evacuation route' more meaningful.

Walked the trail and was delighted at all the fauna and smells and birds singing.  If you don't walk any other trail in the park, you would get a good flavor of the ancient forest sights and smells with this quick little walk.  Amazing that when you are out of the forest the temperature is at least 10 degrees warmer. Warm day again - about 15 degrees above normal - was about 86 in full sun. Could stay in the forest my whole life - the coolness, the sounds of the birds, the smell of the conifer trees, the peacefulness of being among the giant trees - a slice of heaven.

Pretty wildflowers!

After our walk our next goal was to head east bound towards Box Canyon which is a very deep narrow canyon with a fast moving river running through the bottom of it. All along the road you would see bright red flowers and purple and lilac flowers, bright orange, white bells, yellow flowers - just beginning to entice you to stick around for the grand show in about two more weeks.

Reflection Lake

Stopped at Reflection Lake - still quite a lot of snow around the lake but the lake was open.  Caught a great shot of Rainier in the lake's reflection.  Another week and you won't have to worry about any snow.  Stopped at Paradise Visitors Center and was shocked at how fast the snow has melted.  Lots of people - and it will get more crowded with the holiday coming. Paradise is called thus because a visitor remarked that the area was paradise with all the wildflowers abounding.  Another two weeks and it will be paradise for sure.

Mt. St. Helens

At Box Canyon we did the 1/2 mile interpretive walk.  As we stood over the bridge and looked down 120 feet to the river and gorge we both said - hmmmm- slot canyon! The difference being the slot canyon is formed from limestone and sandstone and has entrance and exit where a box canyon has three sides - the river was falling down into the canyon and out. The wow factor - when we stood on the bridge looking down into the canyon then looked up - Mt. St. Helens was staring back at us - only I thought it was Rainier realized that it wasn't.  Wow.

Scenic Drive and Wood Mill

We made yesterday a low key day, decided to drive one of the scenic drives stated in a brochure we were given.  The drive took us north from Packwood and turned just west of the entrance to Mt. Rainier National Park, then headed west to a small town of Elbe then headed south and turned east again once we got to Morton.  A big circle out west of Mt. Rainier and back.

Mineral Lake

I imagine that when the wildflowers are out or in the fall with the leaves changing, would be quite pretty but we did see many summer homes tucked away in the mountains and lots of small creeks and streams with water really rushing due to the snow melt.  We stopped in a small town of Elbe for some coffee and saw a pretty little church listed on the national register for historic places.  Again, blink and you would pass right through Elbe.

Volcano Evacuation Route Sign

I wanted us to visit Mineral Lake, a small alpine lake that was recommended that we visit.  Very pretty, very idyllic.  Kids swimming, row boats, people fishing by the banks, power boats, paddle boats, saw a campground at one end of the lake.  Asked someone how deep is the lake and he thought about 500 feet.  Yikes!  I could see huge trees underwater, the water was that clear.  Cute little town and could see where this town is definitely a summer retreat for those in Seattle, about 80 miles away.  Lots and lots of  small lakes abound around here.  Hard pressed to decide which is prettier.

Lumber truck getting unloaded

Drove on to Morton.  Saw a huge lumber mill called Hampton Lumber - took some pictures.  Big business.  Passed other Hampton Lumber mills in small towns we passed through. Finished our drive and headed back east to Packwood.  A "volcano evacuation route" sign caught my eye in the morning as we were heading out - oh my goodness, haven't thought in terms of something like that.  We are very close also to Mt. St. Helens National Park and saw the turn off to visit there, so I guess you could evacuate with Rainier or Helens.  This area is called the volcanic ring - Mt. Hood, Mt. St. Helens, and Mt. Rainier.  Who knows when the next eruption will be?

Casual Hike to Sand Lake

Leech Lake

Ranger and helper on horseback

We drove back east on US 12 to the White Pass Mountain Ski Resort area, about 15 miles from Packwood to a trail head for Sand Lake.  Parked at the serene Leech Lake where we saw kayakers and fishing people out drifting.  Pretty. We chose this hike because it is part of the Pacific Crest Trail that transverses Canada to Mexico and this is the closest to the Mt. Rainier that it comes.  The hike was rated easy, family friendly, elevation gain of 820 feet, and if we made it to Sand Lake which is a alpine lake only reached by hiking or horseback, it was 7 miles round trip.  A bit far for us but wanted to experience the PCT - if it was that easy - maybe we could do it.  Along the hike you come to Deer Lake first, then on to Sand Lake.

Encountered snow pack

The elevation gain we felt was way more than the 820 feet.  By the time we reached the summit of the mountain where you then drop down into a meadow and on to Deer Lake  (I think about 2 miles in), we started to run into snow pack.  Weird sensation - you are sweating from the 84 degrees, mosquitoes biting, birds chirping, smell of pine forest, hear little brooks and streams and falls, and bam - heavy hard snow pack.  We had crossed paths with a ranger and an aide on horseback, coming back from Sand Lake who was making sure the path was clear to Sand Lake and beyond - he said that you cannot go beyond Sand Lake - snow is just impassible.  And he had to find a path in by the 18th because he was bringing in a group of people by horses. They were returning to the parking lot to board up the horses to take them around to another entrance to Sand Lake and try to come in from that side. Yesterday would have been a long day for those horses!

We also passed other hikers coming back from an overnight near Sand Lake, said that snow is way deep and the mosquitoes are as big as horses.  Thank goodness we have bug repellent - we offered the use of the spray to one guy who had run out of it and was getting chewed up.  On our way back we could hear voices coming from behind and we typically stop and wait for whoever to pass. Got a little nervous when it looked like a wolf coming along the path towards us - she was the pet dog of the group of 3 coming back from Deer Lake where they were fishing.

Wolf? 

The path was well worn although a bit rocky in places. Well marked, through old growth forest, the birds chirping, hearing the trees rustle with the wind, the smell of the forest - neat.  Can't say this was a favorite walk since the path was a bit rugged and mud covered from the recent snow melt - had to do a lot of dodging.  The smells and sights and sounds were more pronounced at the Grove of the Patriarchs from the other day.  We are happy that we accomplished a goal for this trip - to walk the Pacific Crest Trail for a bit.

Rimrock Lake

After the walk we stopped at a couple of overlooks of Mt. Rainier and also tried to find Clear Lake, a glacier lake right near US 12 about 10 miles east of here.  Could see the lake but could not find where to pull off to view it better.  Absolutely exhausted when we got back but good day near Mt. Rainier.And - looking out our back window of the RV - Rainier with no clouds!  Amazing.

Mt. Rainier with no clouds!

Fireworks in Packwood, WA

Since Tuesday we have been reminded that there will be fireworks at 10pm sharp on Saturday night (last night) and that we had to go see them, can't miss it.  And - it wasn't broadcast - seems it was word of mouth.  Lasts for 12 minutes but worth your time.  Well, we had our doubts - Packwood has maybe 1000 people here, a grocery store, hardware store, post office, liquor store, and a quilt shop!!!, couple of bars/restaurants, two gas stations, a library, a tourist information center with a gentleman who was so full of things for us to do - mind boggling.  No school - closed in 2004 and kids are bused to the White Pass area, couple of churches, one campground (we are in), three lodges that I know of, and just an ambiance that is so small town it's unbelievable.  Blink and you are through it, so slow down.  What a charming place.

And lots of elks (we call them the kids since they are a year old - being led around by a female who didn't have a baby this year and the kids were kicked out by their moms not long ago - kinda lost) who roam freely around everywhere eating everyone's flowers and plants and grass.  This is a non-incorporated town - we aren't sure how they decide what goes in or out - no government.  The town is a no-kill zone and the kids know it - they are everywhere any time of the day.

The fireworks last night totally, totally blew our minds.  One man put this show on - and he did not scrimp on what he did.  All colors, sizzlers, no cherry bombs - not sure if that's what they are called, but colorful and lasted way longer than 12 minutes.  We walked down a side street to get to where we were told to go to, saw the kids grazing on some yard of course, then waited.  We noticed on the mountain where the town's water tower is a spot light every now and then shining back at this man's home. Maybe 30 cars showed up and parked in the open field where we were, saw that traffic on US 12 came to a halt as passerby's watched. Where was the rest of the townsfolk?

Talked with a woman right before and said that this was - she thought - the second or third year for this guy to do this. He pays for it out of his own pocket, we knew he had help setting off the display because we could hear them woo-hooing after the test ones. He has a home on a bluff overlooking Mt. Rainier and the town, perfect for setting them off.  Afterward we chatted with the lady and she said this guy just got his license to set them off and he was practicing with Packwood, will be setting off fireworks over Clear Lake down the road which will be on the 4th and the significance is that with the fireworks there, Mt. Rainier will be in the backdrop to them.  The lady said he probably spent $5,000 on them - to ourselves we said -  ah, no - over $50,000 !!!!  Our spectulation is that this display was being filmed from the cliff by the water town - maybe for him for advertising, or to tweek what worked and didn't work.  Amazing little town and glad we watched spectacular fireworks.  We said afterward that this was better than what the Cleveland Browns shoot off from the stadium out over Lake Erie - we used to take the sailboat out on the Lake those nights and watch from the water.

Trip to Sunrise on Mt. Rainier

Tipsoo Lake - Rainier partially reflected

We decided to drive up the east side road of Mt. Rainier yesterday when we found out that Sunrise Visitors Center had opened up that morning.  But first we stopped again at Tipsoo Lake at the Chinook Pass area where the previous day it was socked in with rain and mist.  Wanted to see what we missed.  Wow! Tipsoo Lake had this misty blue color to it, almost phosphorescent - an alpine lake formed from the melt of a glacier.  This area was once the most skied area in the Cascades but due to avalanches the skiing has moved to White Pass a little to the east.  The temperature was a balmy 65 - with all the deep snow, walking past a large area of snow the temp dropped at least 10 degrees.  Strangest thing.

Snow! at Sunrise

Continued traveling north on Route 410 which if continuing past the park entrance to Sunrise, would eventually swing back around to Seattle. The road was switchbacks up the Sunrise Ridge of the park, Dave mentioned that he is a pro now - maneuvering switchbacks from the previous year at Glacier Natl Park on Going-To-The-Sun Road.  Only this road isn't as narrow.  Vista views abounded!  The little bit of clouds prohibited us from seeing Mount Baker to the north and Mount St. Helens to the south.  About 4000 feet we began to see snow even though the temperature was in the high 60's.  The snow was melting fast! As we got to the Sunrise Visitors Center the snow pack was very deep.  Figured in many places at least 10 feet deep.  But warm out - 62. Started out with our windbreakers on and quickly took them off - the sun was so strong and warm.  Got sunburnt without realizing it.

Sunrise is at 6400 feet elevation and is the highest point in the park that can be reached by car.  If you want to hike to Camp Muir at 10,000 feet - must register with the ranger and be proficient in mountain climbing due to being on glaciers and have to be in excellent condition to do this - often times they require a guide to go along with you.  We did walk about 1/2 mile of the Wonderland Trail - a 93 mile trail that circumnavigates Mt. Rainier, while at Sunrise. Due to the snow pack at Sunrise and also at Paradise, hiking trails are still covered and therefore limited hiking/walking.  We have missed seeing the meadows of wild flowers but are glad we have experienced the 'spring' melt of the winter snows.

Wood bridge over White River

Driving back down from Sunrise we stopped at White River Campground and Picnic area.  As we were driving up to Sunrise I remarked to Dave that a river I was seeing looked white - and dah - it is called White River!  We walked a little bit of the Wonderland Trail there to where it crosses the White River via a wooden bridge and marveled at the magnitude of the debris and swath of destruction that the river caused.  Pretty cool to walk over this river - very sensory, I did put my hand in the water to see how cold and froze off my fingertips - definitely from a glacier.  And the water is white from the dirt and debris of the melt of the glacier that forms this White River.

We have experienced two different climates at Mt. Rainier National Park - a rain forest and the alpine.   But the most sensory thing for me since we came here is the smell - deep pine scent.  If you visit Rainier and want to walk/hike alot - best to come mid July to August.  Otherwise you will be limited due to the snow. And - we got to see Mt. Rainier with just the top in clouds! Probably the best we will see for our stay.  Last night at sunset - no clouds at all - figures.  Was a great day at Mt. Rainier.