Saturday, September 28, 2013

Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge

We picked a brochure at the beginning of our stay here in Beatty for a wildlife refuge about 40 miles drive south of here, at the south end of Death Valley National Park, so we hopped in the truck and went there yesterday. Here we are, in the Mojave Desert and dry and desolate all around us, and yet there were these big patches of green trees, grass, lots of birds in the middle of nowhere.  And I do mean nowhere.  We saw a body of water looking north from the entrance to the refuge and realized we were looking at the southern mountain range of Death Valley National Park.
Reservoir in middle of Mojave Desert
Over 100 miles to the northeast, water from the mountains enters a vast underground aquifer system.  This water flows underground and when it comes to an area that is blocked due to a fault, it surfaces. Eventually it goes back underground.  This same water system eventually surfaces by our campground, called the Amargosa River, which stays above ground for a couple of miles, then disappears again.  This same river eventually comes above ground at Badwater Basin in Death Valley.

Endangered Devils Hole Pupfish
Ash Meadows NWR covers over 23,000 acres of spring-fed wetlands and uplands.  Very pretty area to visit.  And, since this summer was exceptionally dry and less rain than normal, I was leery we would see much greenery.  The springs are home to the Devils Hole Pupfish, a species of fish that has survived over 20,000 years in these waters.  Was very surprised at the springs, small streams of water, the fish, bunnies, heard birds and saw them but they were too quick to take a photo.  Would love to see this area in the spring or after the monsoon rains of July.  Saw many different tracks and scat (poop) but since we were there early afternoon, they were probably hiding from the sun.
Viewing platform near springs
Crystal Pool
King's Pool
Explains how water gets there
The prettiest spring we saw was called Crystal Springs, the pool where it bubbles up is 15 feet deep!  Aqua blue, water flowing quite rapidly, and no matter the dryness of the season, it flows.  This whole area was inhabited by the Paiute and Shoshone Indians hundreds of years ago and used it for gathering mesquite seeds and bulbs.  There was evidence of the Indians being there by their grinding bowls and tools left behind.  As we walked along the boardwalk with interpretive signs, we could hear the water, like a bubbling brook, very near us.  The boardwalks were built to be right near the water and the spring head where it comes out of the underground which gave you great viewing of the area.  Neat to see and appreciate the different aspects of a desert.

Had to drive back through Beatty to fill up diesel one more time, get drinking water, and saw these burros going into a saloon for a brewski.  They knew it was Beer o'clock time.

Beer here!
Back at the campground, we have been serenaded at night with our buddies (coyotes) and Thursday night they gave us a long opera.  We think there is a den not far to our rear in the BLM land behind us and when they come out right after dusk, they start yipping, sort of sounds like quiet little barks.  Then the cacophony started - and kept up for a long time.  I think they must have partied too hardy the night before because it was quiet last night. The burros are noisy, hee-hawing all night long.  Since the Amargosa River is above ground right across the roadway, they hang out there where there is plenty of grass to eat and water.
Lots of rabbits 
Side-Blotched Lizard
We do our pack up/laundry/clean today, get ready for tomorrow morning's drive to Bullhead City, Arizona.  About a 5 hour drive from here.  Will miss the coyotes, burros, Grace will miss watching her bunnies, and of course living here on the desert's edge.

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