Fireworks in Packwood, WA

Since Tuesday we have been reminded that there will be fireworks at 10pm sharp on Saturday night (last night) and that we had to go see them, can't miss it.  And - it wasn't broadcast - seems it was word of mouth.  Lasts for 12 minutes but worth your time.  Well, we had our doubts - Packwood has maybe 1000 people here, a grocery store, hardware store, post office, liquor store, and a quilt shop!!!, couple of bars/restaurants, two gas stations, a library, a tourist information center with a gentleman who was so full of things for us to do - mind boggling.  No school - closed in 2004 and kids are bused to the White Pass area, couple of churches, one campground (we are in), three lodges that I know of, and just an ambiance that is so small town it's unbelievable.  Blink and you are through it, so slow down.  What a charming place.

And lots of elks (we call them the kids since they are a year old - being led around by a female who didn't have a baby this year and the kids were kicked out by their moms not long ago - kinda lost) who roam freely around everywhere eating everyone's flowers and plants and grass.  This is a non-incorporated town - we aren't sure how they decide what goes in or out - no government.  The town is a no-kill zone and the kids know it - they are everywhere any time of the day.

The fireworks last night totally, totally blew our minds.  One man put this show on - and he did not scrimp on what he did.  All colors, sizzlers, no cherry bombs - not sure if that's what they are called, but colorful and lasted way longer than 12 minutes.  We walked down a side street to get to where we were told to go to, saw the kids grazing on some yard of course, then waited.  We noticed on the mountain where the town's water tower is a spot light every now and then shining back at this man's home. Maybe 30 cars showed up and parked in the open field where we were, saw that traffic on US 12 came to a halt as passerby's watched. Where was the rest of the townsfolk?

Talked with a woman right before and said that this was - she thought - the second or third year for this guy to do this. He pays for it out of his own pocket, we knew he had help setting off the display because we could hear them woo-hooing after the test ones. He has a home on a bluff overlooking Mt. Rainier and the town, perfect for setting them off.  Afterward we chatted with the lady and she said this guy just got his license to set them off and he was practicing with Packwood, will be setting off fireworks over Clear Lake down the road which will be on the 4th and the significance is that with the fireworks there, Mt. Rainier will be in the backdrop to them.  The lady said he probably spent $5,000 on them - to ourselves we said -  ah, no - over $50,000 !!!!  Our spectulation is that this display was being filmed from the cliff by the water town - maybe for him for advertising, or to tweek what worked and didn't work.  Amazing little town and glad we watched spectacular fireworks.  We said afterward that this was better than what the Cleveland Browns shoot off from the stadium out over Lake Erie - we used to take the sailboat out on the Lake those nights and watch from the water.

Trip to Sunrise on Mt. Rainier

Tipsoo Lake - Rainier partially reflected

We decided to drive up the east side road of Mt. Rainier yesterday when we found out that Sunrise Visitors Center had opened up that morning.  But first we stopped again at Tipsoo Lake at the Chinook Pass area where the previous day it was socked in with rain and mist.  Wanted to see what we missed.  Wow! Tipsoo Lake had this misty blue color to it, almost phosphorescent - an alpine lake formed from the melt of a glacier.  This area was once the most skied area in the Cascades but due to avalanches the skiing has moved to White Pass a little to the east.  The temperature was a balmy 65 - with all the deep snow, walking past a large area of snow the temp dropped at least 10 degrees.  Strangest thing.

Snow! at Sunrise

Continued traveling north on Route 410 which if continuing past the park entrance to Sunrise, would eventually swing back around to Seattle. The road was switchbacks up the Sunrise Ridge of the park, Dave mentioned that he is a pro now - maneuvering switchbacks from the previous year at Glacier Natl Park on Going-To-The-Sun Road.  Only this road isn't as narrow.  Vista views abounded!  The little bit of clouds prohibited us from seeing Mount Baker to the north and Mount St. Helens to the south.  About 4000 feet we began to see snow even though the temperature was in the high 60's.  The snow was melting fast! As we got to the Sunrise Visitors Center the snow pack was very deep.  Figured in many places at least 10 feet deep.  But warm out - 62. Started out with our windbreakers on and quickly took them off - the sun was so strong and warm.  Got sunburnt without realizing it.

Sunrise is at 6400 feet elevation and is the highest point in the park that can be reached by car.  If you want to hike to Camp Muir at 10,000 feet - must register with the ranger and be proficient in mountain climbing due to being on glaciers and have to be in excellent condition to do this - often times they require a guide to go along with you.  We did walk about 1/2 mile of the Wonderland Trail - a 93 mile trail that circumnavigates Mt. Rainier, while at Sunrise. Due to the snow pack at Sunrise and also at Paradise, hiking trails are still covered and therefore limited hiking/walking.  We have missed seeing the meadows of wild flowers but are glad we have experienced the 'spring' melt of the winter snows.

Wood bridge over White River

Driving back down from Sunrise we stopped at White River Campground and Picnic area.  As we were driving up to Sunrise I remarked to Dave that a river I was seeing looked white - and dah - it is called White River!  We walked a little bit of the Wonderland Trail there to where it crosses the White River via a wooden bridge and marveled at the magnitude of the debris and swath of destruction that the river caused.  Pretty cool to walk over this river - very sensory, I did put my hand in the water to see how cold and froze off my fingertips - definitely from a glacier.  And the water is white from the dirt and debris of the melt of the glacier that forms this White River.

We have experienced two different climates at Mt. Rainier National Park - a rain forest and the alpine.   But the most sensory thing for me since we came here is the smell - deep pine scent.  If you visit Rainier and want to walk/hike alot - best to come mid July to August.  Otherwise you will be limited due to the snow. And - we got to see Mt. Rainier with just the top in clouds! Probably the best we will see for our stay.  Last night at sunset - no clouds at all - figures.  Was a great day at Mt. Rainier.

Giant Patriarchs and Silver Falls

Suspension bridge over Ohanapecosh River

Enough rain!  What did we expect, coming to the Pacific Northwest? Started raining Saturday night and continued until yesterday morning.  Not hard rain like Ohio gets, just a gentle rain - Dave said on Tuesday the rain looks like snow.  You can see it come in waves, sometimes heavy continuous rain, then soft drizzle.  Saw Mt. Rainier on Saturday - and now beginning to think that that was our only shot at seeing it while we are here!  Yesterday morning we said, enough! decided to go hiking in the rain.  Headed back to the Stevens Canyon entrance of Mt. Rainier on the eastern side to two hikes we wanted to do - one was the Grove of the Patriarchs and the second was the Silver Falls hike.  We could park at one and be able to hike both from the same spot (parking is limited there).

Giant Cedars and Douglas Firs

The Grove hike meanders along the Ohanapecosh (Oh - hahn - ah - peh - cosh:  love to say that!!) River following a well worn, delightful scenic trail.  Came to a one-person suspension bridge over the river which swayed as you walked across it, but so very cool!, and continued on to the Grove. I wanted to feel how cold the water was from the river and about froze off my fingers - this river is the result of a glacier melting and therefore was almost a pale blue color (the sign of a glacier runoff).  These trees are over 1000 years old, enormous, and even though you saw many fallen dead trees covered in moss, the dead trees had smaller trees growing out of them.  Life from death.  Just an amazing thing to see this forest.   Very idyllic, very humbling being around these Patriarchs.

The park has done a great job identifying the trees you were looking at, telling the ecology, the age and history of how and why the trees look like they do and how the Indians used the tree for clothes, medicines, tools, etc.

Bridges over creeks

Lush greenery, idyllic waterfall

Silver Falls

After the Grove we crossed the road to the Silver Falls Trail head and again walked through very old growth trees/forest.  Trickle of a spring passing by, birds tweeting, very very moist and humid from all the rain, and the smells!  About 3/4 mile along we started to hear the Ohanapecosh River getting louder - the bounding of waterfalls. A cascade of falls down to the deep drop of the main break and the park has placed overlooks and a wooden bridge over it to get the best views. The cascading waterfalls, spray, lush greenery, huge boulders, the mist rising from the water, sunlight trying to come through the canopy, and the noise of the water rushing over - just awesome to see and hear and feel.  We went through starting out being comfortable (had jackets on) to being warm from the walk (only 60 degrees) to being quite chilled from the low temperature of the water, to comfortable again, then back to being warm from the hike back.  Not only a scenic beauty to the eyes but a sensory feel from the moisture, warmth, humidity and coolness.Very lovely walk.  To heck with the rain - still had a great day.

Tipsoo Lake

The day was still young (1:45pm) we decided to drive up the eastern side of the park to where the Pacific Crest Trail crosses at Chinook Pass. The PCT transverses from Canada to Mexico through mostly the Cascade mountain range.  People typically start from the south and hike north which is good since this area in Washington is still under anywhere from 1 foot to 12 feet of snow! The Chinook Pass has only been open since the 16th and we guessed there was 8 feet of snow still on the ground right at the pass.  Obviously no hiking can be done now, but in another month - this area will be filled with hikers and day-use picnickers.  The fog and mist from the melting snow and the gentle rainfall was amazing to see and feel. Stopped at an ice covered Tipsoo Lake at the Pass and was amazed at how blue it was - just beautiful!  Found out that in the summer months this lake is one of the most photographed lakes in the country - Mt. Rainier is typically reflected in this lake - would like to come back here on a clear day to see this again.

Orientation to Mt. Rainier

Christine Falls

When you live in the Pacific Northwest, rain is not an issue, and for us yesterday - it wasn't.  We decided to get the scoop on Mt. Rainier by driving into the park from the south west side.  Traveled through a national forest that looked like something out of the dinosaur age - trees branches hanging low over the road to form a canopy, moss dripping down to the ground, everything and anything covered with moss, and a swift flowing river racing by.  Saw many campers tucked into the small spaces between the road and river, I would not want to be camping like that - in rain, in a tent, and no facilities.

Roadside waterfall

Once we passed into the gate of the national park the scenery opened up with wide vista views of rivers and creeks rushing by, huge trees - some you can tell have been hit by cars with deep gouges in them, just a pretty scene even though it was raining and we were looking through the wipers of the car.  We are excited as to what we will see again - while the sun is shining - when we come back on a clear day.

Stopped at the Longmire Visitor's Center and talked with a park ranger and got more information on the lay of the park.  It is one thing to look at information on-line and try to imagine what you will see but it is totally different when you actually drive the roads.

Lush Greenery - snow at 5,000 feet.

Drove farther eastbound on the park road (you can drive around Mt. Rainier from the south and east but there are no roads on the west and the north road does not travel deep into the park) and came to Paradise - Jackson Visitors Center.  Viewed the orientation movie, collected more information, and viewed their displays.  This area is under at least 6 feet of snow and has only be open since the 19th of June and therefore whatever hiking we will do will be on the east side where snow has melted.  This morning when I looked on-line to the live webcams of the park, I saw where Paradise is having a snow storm.  Predicted, but not what we want to experience or drive in.  The north visitors center is not open - they are still under a deep snow cover and predict it will be open on July 3rd, hopefully.  Rainier stays snow covered from 7,000 feet and above  all year (14,492 is peak) due to the glaciers found there.

Snow at Jackson Visitor Center - notice hikers?  Elev. 5400 ft

One thing we noticed - there were many places where we could pull off the road and get out to take pictures - very friendly to the photographers and scene gawkers.  This was not so in Glacier National Park.  Rainier is the 5th oldest national park and the engineers who designed the roads and services here kept the visitor in mind when they planned where and how they would be able to get to see the most.  Every turn is so different in views.  Great planning!

We saw some magnificent waterfalls up close and from a distance, lots of flowers blooming, mist hanging along the valley and rising up over the mountain peak, just gorgeous.  The weather prediction is snow on the mountain today through Wednesday afternoon, cleaning later that day.  Will sit tight, get caught up, plan where and what hikes we will do, and fortunately have time on our side waiting for the sun to show.  Some people visit the park and never get to see the mountain top.  At least we saw the peak when we came in on Saturday and hopefully will get to see the sun again before we go.

The Drive to Packwood, Washington

McNary Dam on Columbia River

We left Wildhorse Casino in Pendleton this morning without any problems and were on our way by 8:30am.  Got on I84 traveling west and once we crossed over the Columbia River, we headed north and west again on I82. Saw the McNary Dam.  Water flowing pretty good with the rains the last couple of days. Traveled through fruit country with fruit vendors every so often and fruit packing houses with wooden crates stack at least 10 X 10 deep in yards.  This area reminded me a lot of Napa Valley in California, mountains on each side with a pretty valley below and so many vineyards, you could not imagine.  And fruit trees - cherry, apple, saw signs for huckleberries and I am glad to get back into huckleberry country!  So sweet.

Rimrock Lake

Once we passed through Yakima and headed west on Route 12, the same route we were on in Clarkston, the country side became more what I expect for the northwest...fir trees, rugged mountains, waterfalls, river meandering by road, just very scenic. The smell - you can't imagine. Started up into the foothills of Mt. Rainier, driving up into the Cascade Mountains.  Every now and then you would get a view of Mt. Rainier getting closer. And it has lots of snow on it - will probably limit us as to how much hiking and sightseeing we will be able to do while visiting the national park. We passed Rimrock Lake at the base of Mt. Rainier - just spectacular.  We both said - this looks just like Flathead Lake in Montana!  Will have to get an evergreen (fir) tree book because there are so many varieties, we don't know which is what.

Mt. Rainier thru clouds

After putting 233 miles on RV/truck, pulled into Packwood RV campground about 12:30pm, took us over an hour to get the RV set being on grass and with all the rain and previous RVers here, there are some big ruts we had to maneuver to get the RV level.  Once set and slides out and the RV settled in, I just looked out the back window and can see Mt. Rainier as plain as day.  How cool.

Will be here for two weeks to get us through the holiday week.  We passed many National Forest campgrounds on the way and they looked pretty full.  We are glad we are set and settled now for the next two weeks.  And - as predicted - no cell service at all.  We can walk over to the coffee shop or sit at the picnic table right by the library and use their wifi to get on.  Will be a nice quiet two weeks (I think I will be in withdrawal - I always look at my emails, look at weather, look at Facebook but oh well.)  I am glad I already booked our next campground in Port Townsend - have no way of calling them!

Zig Zag Back Into Washington

Today is our last day in Pendleton, Oregon but we will be back in Oregon sometime after middle of August.  We will be moving to a small town in Washington just 6 miles south of the entrance to Mount Rainier National Park, the town called Packwood. Our plans are to visit with Mount Rainier National Park while there. Packwood is about 100 miles south and east of Seattle.  The downside to going to this little town is that we may not have any internet connection while there, so posting may be sparse until we move to Port Townsend, Washington on the 7th of July.

A little about our stay here at Wildhorse Casino in Pendleton.... it has been entertaining to say the least. By 9am most of the overnighters have gone and within an hour the next group comes in.  We would have to say that people come here to gamble.  Period.  RVs come in, set up in 20 minutes and we see the shuttle bus picking them up to go over to the casino (about a 15 minute walk within the grounds of Wildhorse). We have had vintage RVers, toy haulers (have a motorcycle or ATV tucked inside the back end), lots of motor homes (Class A) and 5vers (5th wheel like ours), and many many travel trailer boxes.  All sizes, all shapes, all years - very old and beat up to very new.  And many many dogs.  One of the biggest surprises was when a small box (travel trailer) and our opinion only room enough for 1 person to sleep inside,  and multiple dogs were inside it.  That one had 2 large dogs (black lab size) and 2 small dogs (about 5 pounds of a yapper dog) inside. When Mom and daughter went to the casino to gamble those 4 dogs just howled and howled.  Glad they were back by 9pm!

And then there are the barkers - the littler the dog, the louder and more annoying the yap.  Been amazing to see all the variety of dogs.  We have made a joke to ourself - if it is Oregon plates (most are) then there must be dogs inside (99% of the time there is). We are the abnormal with an indoor cat.

We were surprised with Pendleton.  It is a good size town for the northwest - about 12,000 people, with a large population of Umatilla, Walla Walla, and Cayuse Indians. We did go to the Pendleton Woolen Mill store but I would have had to gamble at the casino to get enough money to buy something.  Absolutely beautiful, but very expensive.  Did learn why Pendleton has the largest rodeo in the country - the Umatilla Indians had the largest herd of horses in the country for centuries.  They developed the Appaloosa and the Cayuse horse breed by careful cross breeding.  The rodeo has been in existance for over 100 years now.  Draws people from all over the country.

And of course, being on the Umatilla Indian Reservation here at casino for the past week has been interesting.  Being a sovereign nation, they are their own country, have their own government and with that their own police department.  Let me just say - you don't want to get into trouble here.  Security (police) patrol the RV park constantly - we have always felt secure here - never an issue.  We did make it to the Umatilla's cultural museum called Tamástslikt Cultural Institute - was very impressed with it. Could not take pictures but was worth the visit.

Oregon Trail and Vintage RVs

Conestoga Wagons

Yesterday we traveled backward - going east on Interstate 84 towards Baker City (not far from Idaho border) where the Oregon Trail Interpretive Center is located.  Since we had visited the National Interpretive Trail Center in Casper, Wyoming a couple of summers ago and learned about the Mormon, the California, and the Oregon Trails and also the Pony Express where they all passed through Casper and from there broke off into different destinations - wanted to see the Oregon portion of the trails and learn what we can.

The Wow factor was not there because we were so impressed with the National center in Casper - nothing could compare to that center.  Was  impressive in it's own right, tremendous actual documentation of pictures and journal entries of those who trekked the road, very nicely done. As Dave said later - what a sad story for so many trying to get to Oregon, the hardships they faced and the deaths of so many people and livestock.  Every 80 yards was a grave.  Accidents, Indian attacks, rattlesnakes, starvation, those that turned back, those that got lost, criminal activity, and the list goes on as to how so many lost their lives on the 2,000 mile trek between Omaha and the Willamette Valley of Oregon to a better life in Oregon.  There are only chancy estimates of how many took this trail from 1812 to the1870's - anywhere from 200,000 to 600,000!

On the way back from Baker City, crossed through the Blue Mountains - pretty, reminded us of the Smoky Mountains back east.  Stopped at the Emigrant Springs State Park where there were markers and interpretive signs regarding the Oregon Trail.  Pretty little park. Ironic that I am reading a book about the Astor Fur Company and talks about the mountain men passing through this area.   We learned at this park of an Ezra Meeker who as a young adult traveled the Oregon trail in 1852 seeking a better life, and then between 1906 and 1908 he traveled the trail again to dedicate it and set markers along it to commemorate the route.  He retraced the route again in 1910, the again in 1916. He was instrumental in getting Congress and the President to dedicate this Historic Trail in 1923. He rode the trail again in a biplane in 1925 and was planning another trek in 1928 when he passed away (at age 97).  Now that's a wow!

Vintage RVs

At our campground last evening we got a really big kick out of some vintage RVs that came in - 9 of them - and I had to be nosy and went over and chatted with one woman.  Sisters On The Fly is a name of an organization that is for women only, rules are no husbands, no pets, no kids, and to be nice - to camp and have camaraderie with other women.  Can bend the rules and not have a vintage RV, but those were so cute - if I ever did this, I would have a vintage RV like these sisters.  How adorable - each were named and there was a theme with each - for example: one was the "disorientated express" and was in railroad motif.  Another was called Gypsy Rose and had roses as it's theme.  Another was Eggroll and looked like an eggroll and decorated as such.

Wildhorse Casino and RV Park, Pendleton Oregon

Made the trip to Pendleton today, a quick 3 hours - 124 miles later, we are set up at the casino RV park on the Umatilla Indian Reservation. Geographically, we are just east of Pendleton, and about 20 miles south from the border of Washington.  This is the third casino we have camped at on this trip - two on Indian Reservations.  We purposefully don't seek them out - they just happen to come with high ratings on park reviews and they are central to where and what we want to do in the area.

I have to tell you about our last day in Clarkston - what a treat!  It seems that everyone and everything were giving us a grand goodbye - so many things happened that are now ingrained in our mind and memory forever.  We had pontoon airplane buzz by, lots and lots of fishing people doing their thing, weird people in even weirder RVs coming in to set up.  Paddle boat passing by, ospreys flying overhead, motorcycles buzzing by, lots of kids riding around on bikes too big for them and no helmets on - and zooming around and we were afraid they were going to get hit, we did not know where to look, so many things at one time.

Then the real fun started about noon when a bunch of pick up trucks with cowboys/cowgirls clamoring/falling out of the trucks, talking loudly, they were BIG people too, with coolers and crock pots of food.  Many of the party (females) were dressed in all shades of pink - the predominant shade of HOT PINK and on very large women - did not go well.  Our site was just past the office, right near the meeting room and indoor pool/laundry and of course they all parked their vehicles right around us.  We were witnessing a red-neck wedding!!! And wow, did we get an eyeful!  We saw some of the guests change clothes right there in front of us in the parking lot, the bridal party slurping down Jack Daniels from flasks - and passing the flasks around so all could get a tote. Women deep kissing men - was not sure who was with who - guess it didn't matter!  It was quite a warm day and then witnessed some of the women actually fanning themselves by picking up their dress skirt and swishing them up and down - saw some amazing things! Good thing they had panties on!  Was not a pretty site.

They were well behaved, but wow!  Could not tell who was the groom until I had to crash the reception - I was doing laundry and the only way to get to the laundry room was through their reception area and then had to wait until the bridal dances were done to escape out of there. Obviously did figure out who was bridge/groom but WOW, amazing to see.  I don't think I want to see hot pink anything for a very long time.

About 6pm more fun with more RVers coming in to park - had some real weirdos beside us.  Glad we left this morning.

Saying Goodbye to Clarkston

Today is the last day in Clarkston, Washington - will be heading to Pendleton, Oregon tomorrow.  Some thoughts about this area.....

Sunset over Snake River

Clarkston/Lewiston is a relatively large city for western US (more than 7,000 people in Clarkston and 32,000 in Lewiston, Idaho) but has a small town feel to it. We wonder if it is a nightmare for taxes for people who live in Clarkston and travel to Lewiston to work and vice versa - crossing state borders.  If there is an area of wealth, it must be in the town of Asotin which is south of Clarkston, don't see it here.  But.  People are out doing things, kids riding bikes, boaters, bicyclists, kayakers, a lot of small mom-pop businesses, an international airport (services to Canada), a feel-good town.  Winters are very cold but little snow (goes to 30 below).  They get the winter wind blasts from the upper prairie of Canada.  We spent most of our down time in Clarkston and traveled over the Snake River to Lewiston for shopping. They have most of the regular stores that you see in a large city, and of course all the tourist stuff.  I could live here - was very comfortable.  Except....

Riverboat

With a large wood processing plant - Clearwater Paper - the smell at times is awful.  Thankfully we are on the western side of the mill and only when the wind shifts does it smell.  When the wind shifts at night from the east, thankfully it is chilly enough at night that we keep the windows closed and keeps the smell out.

Have loved being here at the marina, fun times watching the action......fishing boats, barge and tugboats going by, a riverboat, hearing the sounds of the boats (shrouds hitting the masts of sailboats), and of course watching the RVs come in and out.

Learned a lot here - more about Lewis and Clark and putting places read to actually being there. Saw some beautiful sunsets, and visited a very scenic area - Joseph, Oregon.  Fond memories of the area.

Palouse Falls State Park

Railroad bridge over Snake River

Decided to ride to Palouse Falls State Park, about an hour and half drive away going westbound and more north into the dry arid desert climate of eastern Washington.  Drove in rolling hills, most of the time in the valley between two cliffs, in and out of small towns.  Dave got excited when we came into Starbuck - but no, Starbucks coffee was not to be found.


The drive along US 12 had warnings every now and then for high winds - they were right.  After turning off US 12 and heading north, the force of the wind pulled the back tonneau cover off the tracks of the bed of the truck and flopped it around.  A bit scary.  Will have to remember this area as we travel tomorrow on our way to Pendleton, Oregon.

Lower Falls of Palouse - main waterfall

The landscape got a bit more dreary - very little farms, did see deer skirting across the road.  Saw wind mill farms on both sides of the road - went on for miles.  We had followed the Snake River out of Clarkston and at one point the river veered north while we continued west.  Then we caught up with the Snake again.  And saw where the Palouse River joined it.  The Snake is getting wider and deeper as we travel west with the merging of all the rivers and creeks. And to think the barge/tugboat and also the riverboat we saw yesterday morning all transverse this river to and from Portland. Saw a couple of RV parks along the way and was surprised at how many campers were there, in the middle of nowhere.

Upper Falls of Palouse

At one point we saw two large bridges over the Snake - one was for the railroad and the other was for car traffic.  The car traffic bridge was very narrow, but managed to cross without anyone coming from the other direction. Impressive bridges, can't imagine how they maintain those, the height of the railroad bridge tremendous.

Got to Palouse Falls State Park and after parking the truck, we could hear the waterfall but could not see it.  Palouse Falls is an area that during the Ice Age was in the path of one of greatest floods on earth ever known.  They call it the Great Missoula Flood where hundreds of miles of water backed up  and eventually the dam broke and water, debris, and mud cascaded south and west and eventually drained into the Columbia River and on to the ocean.  Left massive fissures and columns of eroded rock.  This waterfall is what is left of that drainage that happened 60 million years ago. The Falls drops 186 feet from the lower falls (the big fall you see) and there are the upper falls that drop 52 feet.   Walked along the rim of the big falls area and started a conversation with a gentleman who had a huge videocamera set up - he was filming peregrine falcons.  He mentioned that on Youtube you can see a video of someone who kayaked over the falls setting a world record!   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mrveNdW_sj0

After talking with park hosts about what to see and do there, walked the rim trail up river to the upper falls of the Palouse.  Happy we found a Camas Flower - this is the main food substance that the Nez Perce Indians gathered, and at one point, when Lewis and Clark stumbled out of the Bitterroot Mountains on their way to the Pacific, starved and sick, the Indians fed them Camas roots - which is in the family of asparagus and dried salmon.  However - the men gorged themselves on this food and got even more ill!  .  Picnic'd and then started our return trip back.  A good day in eastern Washington.

Three Forks Crossroads

On our way back we stopped at the 'three fork' area that crossed over US 12 where Lewis and Clark used this pathway on land on their return trip, making their trip quicker by using this Nez Perce Indian trail.  I remember reading about this from the journals.

Lewiston Sites

Yesterday was spent around Lewiston visiting some of the Lewis and Clark commemoration sites.  First stop was going to Hells Gate State Park four miles south on the Snake River.  This is an interpretive center that explained the Idaho portion of the duo's trip across America.  It is also dedicated to the Nez Perce Indians that lived in the area and befriended Lewis and Clark and aided them in continuing their journey to the Pacific Ocean.  Did not learn anything new, however, if someone visiting this Center did not know much about Lewis and Clark, this place would be very enlightening.

From internet - wave being built

Next, in downtown Lewiston, many sculptures and artwork and murals adorn the town.  Paintings depicting Lewis and Clark's journey, Indians, horses, etc. - pretty cool.  Dave caught a glimpse the other day of a weird canoe sculpture that sits in the levee pond of the Snake River but parking was not available.  I drove us around and around looking for a spot to stop - but oh well.  Found out that this sculpture is one year old, the artist has done many around the country of 'wave' things. This wave is 30 feet tall, comes out of the water.  There is also a bouquet of canoes around a fountain within this pond not far from this sculpture.  Neat.

Display of artifacts in Center

Gave up trying to stop to get closer to the wave canoe so drove east to Spaulding, Idaho, where the Nez Perce National Historic Park is located.  This is run by the National Park Service but it is on the Nez Perce Indian Reservation.  The ranger we spoke to when we first arrived was a beautiful young Nez Perce woman who told us her grandmother used to live in Spaulding and that her grandmother attended the church which was located on the Center's ground.  Spaulding is known for the first church, school, and settlement of Idaho.  An Episcopalian Minister (Spaulding) converted many Indians.  Strife eventually ended the settlement. The Center was very well done - was quite impressed with the collection of artifacts in their exhibit area.  Even was astounded to the Ohio connection - seems Rev. Spaulding sent some Indian artifacts to a Dr. Allen in Kinsman, Ohio who then donated them to Oberlin College, and then they sent them on to the Ohio Historical Society in Columbus.  It took over 130 years for these artifacts to be returned back to the Nez Perce and the Center. Chief Joseph's peace pipe that was given as a gift to a General and also his rifle and some clothing were on display in the Center.

Looking down on Idaho and Washington

Last, drove up on Spiral Road, a very deep grade of US route 95 north out of Lewiston that takes you to the top of the mountain and on a clear day you can see Oregon, Washington, and Idaho from this vantage point.  Needless to say - we were 'up there'! Glad we are not traveling 95 up this mountain on our next trip - very very steep!!!!

This has been fun being at the marina RV campground.  We have front row seats to the coming and goings on.  Very peaceful here - watching the boaters move around the river and seeing the barges move along.  This morning we are treated to seeing a smaller barge tied up on the other side of the Snake - across the river from us.

Northeast Oregon and the Wallowa Mountains

We traveled south of Clarkston to a small little town called Asotin (more of a resort town - lots of expensive homes built on the hill overlooking the Snake River) and about 10 miles beyond that to a place called Buffalo Eddy on the Snake River where there are petroglyphs on the rocks.  Thought to be at least 300 years old and possibly to as old as 4500.  Got back on the road, headed back to Asotin then headed south towards Joseph, Oregon.

Wallowa Mountains near Joseph, Oregon

The road we followed had us dropping very deep into a canyon - and then back up.  Very narrow, windy road, hugging the side of the canyon for over 9 miles - top speed was 25 miles an hour!  Glad our neighbor from our previous campground talked us out of bringing the RV on this road - WOW!!!  Every time we passed someone hauling an RV, we would say - good luck!  Breathed deeply once we crossed into Oregon and flattened out on top of the Wallowa National Forest.

A family friend said that Oregon is like one national park - that beautiful.  If what we saw yesterday is any indication, we will be on sensory overload the rest of this trip.  Saw much private land with cattle and horses grazing.  One farm had hundreds of sheep grazing - very serene.

Wallowa Mountains and Lake

Stopped at Chief Joseph's Lookout where it is said he was born somewhere near but the significance is that the Nez Perce cached their camas roots (food) in a cave right near there and when the US Army found the cache when they were pursuing the Nez Perce in 1877, the Army burned it - thus the food source was destroyed and the Indians were forced to abandon the area for good.

Horse and rider

Onward south to Joseph.  We were beginning to see this big snow capped mountain range once we stopped at the Overlook. Our goal was to get to Joseph then turn north on a county road to Imnaha where we could look down into Hells Canyon from the Oregon side.  Plans changed. The mountains raising up behind Joseph called our name.  We got information at the visitor's center of the Wallowa Mountains and Wallowa Lake and couldn't resist.  Decided to hike on an easy 3 mile round trip hike.  So very glad we did.  At the end of the hike we stopped at Chief Joseph's grave - the final resting spot for him.  He died in 1871 not far from the Wallowa Lake and was re interred at this spot in 1929.

We have found that there are so many "Heavenly" places on earth - this whole area is another one. This is a Little Alps area - they nicknamed it such. The lake is very deep, a State Park is located right at the base of the lake and a marina was attached to this lake.  Boaters out, people sunbathing on the platforms on the lake, small creeks running, just stunning. Crossed a footbridge over a roaring river.  The smells, the views, the cleanness of the air, flowers blooming - wonderful. Saw horses and riders, knew there were bear, mountain lions, etc. around but did not see any.  Did see a couple of hikers on our trail.  Once we got to the top of the overlook on the trail, the view of the Wallowa Lake was breathtaking. Had to cross 9 'rock rivers' - we called it - flow of rock down the mountain and was tricky to walk across.  Since we knew we had a two hour ride back to Clarkston, called it a day and drove home.  Glad we didn't have to travel that canyon road in the dark - too scary.  And started to see wild life near the road on our way back - deers grazing near the road and coyotes. Very good day in Oregon (ore-ee-gun).

Bridge over Wallowa River

Rock river - 9 to cross!

View of the Lake from top of hike

Clarkston, Washington

Packed up early yesterday morning and left Pollock, Idaho.  We were concerned that when we hooked up the 5th wheel to the truck we would get the trailer warning.  Got the warning, but, once Dave reset the alarm, the truck and trailer seemed to be okay.  We are very pleased with ourselves - we managed to live for 9 days being very miserly with our water usage.  Said our goodbyes to the owner and told him we would be back. We will miss our riverside spot.  And as a goodbye - a bald eagle swooped by, looking for breakfast along the river right near us.

Field of Canola

The drive to Clarkston took us on US route 95 north and up a huge mountain at White Bird, the length of the drive up the mountain was 4 miles, switching back and forth against the side and the grade was 7%.  The truck screamed at us but we got up and over the mountain without anything breaking or overheating.  Poor Grace - her ears must have hurt her with the climb in altitude - she really let us know she was uncomfortable.  As we drove along we were parallel to the Salmon River, very pretty.  Saw farms with this bright yellow (flower) on it -  discovered they were growing canola.  Green, green, then this wild bright yellow patch.  Very distinctive.

Sitting on the Dock of the Bay!

We picked up US 12 going west. Again traveled through the Nez Perce Indian Reservation, picked up the Lewis and Clark Trail and the Nez Perce Trail and on into Lewiston, crossing the Clearwater River and into Clarkston.  This is the first time we have camped at an RV resort with a marina attached to it.  Got front row spot - looking out over the marina and the Snake River (Snake and Clearwater merge in Lewiston).

The Port of Clarkston is the home to the one of the largest cranes on a navigable waterway east of Portland, Oregon.  The Clearwater Paper Corporation transports wood chips and sawdust via barges and sends goods out to Portland.  The marina here is the only marina within the two cities and many boaters travel to Hells Canyon south of the cities. And let's have a diction lesson - I grew up pronouncing Oregon as ore - ah - gone.  Nope.  It's pronounced: ore - ee - gun.

Barge heading towards Portland

The wind was howling last night and the sound of the shrouds clanging on sailboat masts - reminiscent of our years spent sailing on Lake Erie with our sailboat.  Did get to see a river barge heading westbound.

We woke this morning (sunrise is at 4:45am) to a rank smell - forgot about the large wood processing plant right on the banks of the Snake about 1 mile from us.  And Dave caught this osprey flying around over the river and it dove down and caught a fish.

Will be here for a week, then move towards Mount Rainier National Park.

Osprey looking for breakfast

Rapid River Trail 113

Rapid River Trail 113

We had planned to hike the Rapid River Trail 113 for the last couple of days but due to rain we delayed the walk until yesterday.  What a great hike!  The Rapid River has been designated a National Wild and Scenic River which means that it is still pristine - no dams, no alterations, still the natural river that it has always been for hundreds of years.  But first, we stopped at the Rapid River Fish Hatchery which is located about 2 miles from the merging of Rapid River to the Little Salmon River in Riggins.  Our tour guide, John, sure loves his work and the business.  His enthusiasm of the process this hatchery does and the impact to the salmon was so evident.  In layman's terms - the hatchery (one of 5 in Idaho) transfers salmon from the Snake River to the Salmon River above the Hells Canyon Dam and the Brownlee Dam. Very detailed process but their aim is to release 3 million steelhead salmon each year into the river. The hatchery also tags or mark the fish for scientific study and also tracking for migration and observation to number of returns, life cycle, etc.  This hatchery has been rated one of the most successful in the Pacific Northwest.  Quite impressive operation.

Pretty setting - bridge across Rapid River

After the tour we hiked Trail 113 along the Rapid River. We really did not know how long the trail was, our plan was to hike until ... then come back.  After googling the hike last night after we got back, we could have hiked over 40 miles.  As it was, we went a little over 1 1/2 miles and then return.  Absolutely one of the best hikes we have ever done.  Every step we took, the view changed - just breathtaking.  At first we were up high looking down into the canyon and the Rapid River, could hear the river and see it but it was far away. Then we walked through meadows, dropped down along the river for quite a distance.  Got to a wooden bridge (there are bridges every 1 1/2 miles) and then returned.  The butterflies!  I was so concerned about stepping on them, they were that numerous.  Took a break and sat on a rock outcropping right at the river's edge. Wonderful memories!

Trail along the river

Our break spot - sat on this rock

We saw scat droppings of a couple different animals but no bear scat, thank goodness.  The trail was well worn and very level.  Surprisingly.  We both commented that we have not traveled on any flat surfaced trail for many years.  Some steep inclines and then sharp drops down, but the trail was rated easy for the first 3 miles, then moderate, last 20 miles difficult.

Wood's Rose bushes abundant

Some sensory memories - the roar of the water was so loud that we had to yell at each other to talk.  The clearness of the water.  At still water (runs deep) you could see the bottom but for the most part, the water was cascading over rocks and the white water is pretty much what you saw.  Lots of boulders in the water.  Trees overhanging the river from one side to the other. Tremendous movement and spray/foam from the water.  The smells of the forest - pine, wild flowers especially the Wood's Rose, dampness from the rock overhangs.  You could smell the roses way before seeing them.  The moss on the trees from the wetness.  The temperature drop when you were in the shade. High cliffs overhead with birds flying in and out of crevices. The feeling you were alone and a very minuscule part of the world.  A piece of Heaven on earth.

After our walk John had suggested we drive up Seven Devils Road and go to the top where you could stand and drop a pebble into the Hells Canyon and turn 45 degrees and drop another pebble into the Salmon River Canyon - the two deepest gorges in the US (the Grand Canyon is 3rd).  Alas - too much snow and downed trees and had to turn around not far from the top.  Too bad - should have been here about two weeks later.

Downed trees and snow blocked road - too bad

Clearwater River

Speeder Rail Car

Got 'house' bound due to rain last couple of days so got caught up on reading and computer stuff and doing laundry.  It has been interesting here at the campground - two nights ago a Class A (motorhome) and 2 Class Cs (type of enclosed RV where there is sleeping area above the driver - like an overhang) pulled in and set up right beside us.  They were pulling small trailers behind the RV and it looked like rail road repair equipment that is used to repair the tracks.  Small, two seaters.  And the people looked tired, and as we watched their interactions with each other, figured they were on their way home from a job (Oregon license plates).  Not so.  These folks belong to NARCO, North American Rail Car Organization, which has chapters all over the states, Canada and even in Europe, that race their little 'speeders' on railroad tracks.  They get permission from the railroad, or from the city - who ever owns tracks, and they have rallies, put their speeders on the tracks and run them.  They go up to 40 miles an hour, two cylinder engines, draws 8 horsepower.  Boy did we peg them wrong - never judge by looks!

Clearwater River

Yesterday we drove north following US Route 95 through small towns and following the Salmon River for most of the way until we broke off 95 and went towards the Bitterroot Mountains following the Northwest Passage and Nez Perce Indian Trail following the route Lewis and Clark took when they crossed the US back in 1804 - 1806. We were not far from Montana's border. Crossed through the Nez Perce Indian Reservation and drove through very small towns. Once we got into Kooskia and started on US Route 12 - the white pine forests became so thick - was astounding to see.  As we drove US 12 we followed the Clearwater River - renamed from the Clark River after Captain William Clark, right along the edge of the road. The river is just as pretty as the Salmon - white water rapids, swift moving, clear and deep.  So PRETTY and serene!

Salmon River Valley

We stopped at a kiosk in Kooskia that explained the area, the significance of salmon (Chinook), the role the Indians played during the expedition, and had signs about hunting and logging.  This is the area where the expedition stumbled out of the mountains, starved and very ill, and the Nez Perce Indians took them in and fed them and nursed them to healthy.  They stayed in the  area for 3 weeks recouping and lived among the Indians during this time.  Since Dave and I have tried to see as many places of the Lewis and Clark expedition as we traveled west of the Mississippi, we were pleased we followed this trail for some time - now able to remember this area and the terrain with what happened from their journals.

The visibility of the mountains - still seeing snow on them, the steep grades of the roads and now understand why there are no railroads anywhere near - just is not feasible to build them because of steep grades. Seeing the Nez Perce area and the battlefields between the Indians and the Army as the Army pursued them to Canada, and fabulous green!  Clean air, seeing golden eagles flying around, hearing the hawks call - just love this area.

Funny thing happened when we stopped at the kiosk - guess who was sitting in the parking area having lunch?  Yep, our 3 buddies with the speeder rail cars.  Heading to Washington for the next rendezvous. Small world.

Salmon River, Riggins - Idaho

Looking down to river from city park

We have died and gone to heaven - this area is just so pretty!  So hard to put into words the beauty and nature we see.  Yesterday we went into Riggins - the closest town to where we are camping here in Pollock and stopped at the US Forest Service Office to get information on what to see and do while here.  We got sensory overload.  Did get a little disappointed when we found out that the two major roads (dirt roads) into Devils Canyon Wilderness area are still snow covered and hence closed, but there are other things to do while here.  Again, timing is everything - if we were here about two weeks later, we could have done the drive, but the snow will stop us.

Looking east on the Salmon River - notice rafter?

While in town we parked at the city park to overlook the Salmon River and the fishing going on.  There are some serious enterprises here.  White water rafting, fishing tours, helicopter tours, you name it and pay for it, you can do it.  We drove along the Salmon River on a road that at times was very narrow and only allow one car to pass at a time, and was just stunned at the scenery.  We traveled about 15 miles to where the road became very narrow and felt that with our large truck, just to find an area to turn around might be impossible.  As we traveled along this road and had the river raging by us, at the next turn our breaths would be taken away with the scene.  This area is BLM land and primitive camping is allowed and found a number of sites taken.  Rafters, fishing folks, did not see any hikers, did see a biker (wow!), saw horses so there had to be a ranch somewhere ? and lots of raw pristine land.  Did I tell you how pretty?

Baby deer just hanging around

Would love to live here.  Got out of the car at one point and walked along the river and found 3 mule deer just grazing right at the water's edge.  Two quickly went away and the third (smaller - possibly a baby) just was amazed at us, kept us about 30 feet away, but stayed for quite some time.  Found also at least 50 butterflies right on the water's edge.  Rafters floating by, could tell some were on a tour, some were privately owned.  Still trying to figure out what to do - have gotten more literature to review and hopefully will do a hike tomorrow.  An awesome day!

Raw beauty of Salmon River