Trip to Del Mar, California

Let's first get caught up since we arrived here in Picacho, Arizona this past October.  We have been having fun with being with the 3 grand girls, have watched some of Emi's soccer games, accompanied Zoe to see "So You Think You Can Dance" 2013 tour performance in Phoenix, zipped Lia around to her girlfriends, and gotten caught up on Jill and Erez's lives.  I even managed to fly home to Cleveland for a visit and took in a quilt retreat with my friend Brenda.  Thanksgiving came and went and I cannot believe it's the first week of December.  Wow! We have settled in to the routine winter life here but have no complaints of the weather - days typically about 50 - 60 degrees and nights about 40. And lots of sunshine. Been witnessing some spectacular sunsets over Picacho Peak.  And have had more rain than typical.  But then, the rest of the country is having a really lousy winter with terrible snow storms.  This is better by far.

Del Mar 17th Street Lifeguard Station

Hotel on left - lifeguard station to right

The sunsets!

We decided to take a quick trip to California a couple of days ago, to Del Mar, which is located just north of San Diego.  The drive took us 6 hours traveling on Interstate 8 west to a quaint hotel, Del Mar on the Beach Inn, located right on the Pacific Ocean and has a Lifeguard station situated right next door.  We were able to get one of the two front rooms with a big window that faces the ocean. We had been there 9 years ago and thought why not visit again?  The hotel we stayed at was the location many years ago for the movie "Where The Boys Are".  Some surprises we had since being here - the lifeguard station back then was a small little shack and last year they built this wonderful state-of-the-art place where the lifeguards can use spotting scopes to keep an eye out.  Their trucks, ATVs, dinghy, and surfboards line the beach in front of them, ready for a quick rescue if need.  We could hear them  broadcast out to the surfers/boogy boarders that they were going home for the night and that they should get out of the water - which some continued until it was pretty dark. The restaurants we visited back then were still there but we chose not to spend the money, instead we got some pizza one night and did a sandwich run another night, and stayed in our room with the panoramic window looking out over the ocean and watched the spectacular sunsets.  Stayed warm and snug but had a fabulous view.

Sunset - tide out 

Coastal Train heading to LA

Surfers - Radical!!

High School girls' PE class

Beautiful white beach

What fun we had watching and feeling.  The beautiful sunsets, the brown pelicans flying right at the water's edge of waves breaking, little shore birds skirting the receding water, seeing fishing boats and sail boats out on the ocean, tides coming in and out, us people watching as they sauntered or jogged by with their dogs clipping along, surfers trying to catch that perfect wave, the brightness of the sand and having to wear sunglasses even at sunset, hearing the roar of the waves breaking during the night, seeing a pod of what we thought were sharks which turned out to be dolphins swimming by, hearing the Coastal Train quietly glide by right at the water's edge, seeing Maserati's, Jags, BMW's, Porsche's, any and all kinds of expensive cars zipping in and out around town - just a fun, restful, sensory couple of days.

We got a kick out of Friday's entertainment - the local high school's physical education class with about 30 teenage girls came rushing into the waves with their boogy boards and hearing them shriek with the coldness of the water.  What fun!  And how could they do that?  The air temperature was about 50 and the water was 54.  Brrrrr.  Everyone had on a wet suit and they were in the water for over an hour.  And then a little girl, about 6, came to the water's edge with her Dad, and she playfully rode the waves as well. No hesitation with entering the water and staying in.  She did not last the hour and we saw her run to her Dad where her encased her in a huge beach towel and the only thing you saw were her feet sticking out.  I guess when you grow up in California, you become a surfer dude or dudette very young in life.  Totally, radical, awesome trip.

Loving Tombstone Territories RV Park

We have been here now a little over a week, was very warm when we first got here but has cooled down nice - days' high is 80 and down to low 50's at night.  Warm enough and just cool enough.  The sunsets are amazing, something that we were hoping to experience again this year.  We are surprised that the campground is so empty - only a dozen or so campers.  They told us by this coming weekend many are coming in for Helldorado Days in Tombstone, a celebration of the OK Corral and Tombstone's Heritage.  And they are booked solid starting the first week of December.  Hard to imagine that they have RVs waiting outside the park until an opening, then they move in.  Don't think I would like that.  I like knowing we have water, electric at all campgrounds.

We were hoping to be serenaded by the coyotes at night and have not been disappointed.  Last night was the best - sometime after midnight we were startled awake with two coyotes sitting right by our RV, yipping, barking, then silent.  We thought they were gone and then they would start up again.  Absolutely loved hearing them sing for the next 30 minutes or so.  And then - gone!  We usually can here the pack coming closer, passing, then off into the distance.  But these two just appeared, then gone.  Strange.  Grace wasn't even affected - she could have cared less.

Yesterday I saw out the window a javelina just snooping around the grounds.  Got some great pics of the pig - looked like a happy puppy, tail waging, head bobbing, etc. Small, about the size of a Jack Russell Terrier.  Lots of bunny rabbits and birds are around and the campground is surrounded by open range land for cows.  Last night we heard cows mooing - first time.  And they were pretty noisy for hours.

Border patrol - lots of them here.  In order to go shopping or move around we go through check points. Working dogs on duty.  We have seen cars and trucks pulled over at the check points and the patrol tearing through the vehicles.  Patrol vehicles are roaming the roads, sitting back in the shrubs, waiting, watching.  The other night we saw them out with floodlights on their vehicles way off in the distance, obviously looking for someone.  We are about 20 miles from Mexico and this area is noted as Cochise's stronghold.  The Indian Cochise eluded the US Army by hiding in the arroyo's (canyons) and moving around without detection from the Army.  I think those that have crossed the border must know about this area too for the same reason.

Regardless - we love it here.  We will move to our winter home by this weekend, about 75 miles north - half way between Phoenix and Tucson - and will miss these wonderful days and nights. Our summer's big adventure will come to a close.

Patagonia Lake State Park

We are bummed that we cannot go to the two national monuments that were on our list to go to while camping here, so we opted to go see Patagonia Lake State Park.  And of course, picked a pretty warm day to go - was 93 when we stepped out of the truck after getting there.  This park is the product of a couple of business men who back in the 60's decided to make a resort community built around a lake.  Only the lake is man made - they dammed up the Sonoita Creek and thus created a 265 acre surface lake.  Boating, swimming, camping, hiking, and birding are the main attractions.  Very near Nogales, Mexico.

Patagonia Lake where Sonoita Creek enters

We stopped at the visitor's center to get more information and it was closed until Oct 15 when it opens for the next six months - the draw is for bird watchers.  There are a number of rare birds that migrate from the south up to this area but we were too early to see any.  We walked along the trail down to the water and had to zig zag past all the cows that roam freely in that area.  They were very docile but we were not taking any chances. And there were alot of them!  And bulls.  Were told to not get between a mom and her calf - trust us, we won't!

Ahh - hello

Horses a__?   No, cow butts.   Move off the trail!

Did see a green ratsnake - very long, very fast, not poisonous, but little scary none the less.  The water had a very peaceful look, serene.  Small frogs jumping in front of us, too fast to get pictures.  Cicadas yelling at us as we walked by.  A tree that had split and looked like an alligator - at first made me stop and stare at it - kinda spooky.

Green ratsnake

Heard a number of birds, did not see any, walked down to the water's edge - dodging cow poop all along - and noticed a man who was trimming some twigs and just staring at an area over the creek.  Jim lives near by in the community of Rio Rico and has been active in the bird watching program out of the state park.  He said that he was trying to figure out where to put an easy access for people to cross the creek, something that would be easy to maneuver for those physically challenged.  We stood and talked with him a bit, he relayed the history of the park and the silliness of those business men to have that plan when in fact they could not build there since it was state trust land.

 Alligator!

Sonoita Creek

We did not stay long - this park is definitely for camping and boating, and in the right time of year - birding.  It is not a pretty park in terms of foliage - juniper, sage, cottonwood trees, long grasses, scrub pines. And of course lots of barrel and prickly pear cactus.  Just a smidge too hot for us that day.

Ramsey Canyon

One of the places we wanted to visit while camping here at Tombstone Territories RV Resort was Ramsey Canyon Nature Preserve.  It is located south of the city of Sierra Vista, not far from us, and tucked into the Huachuca Mountains.  Huachuca is pronounced wha-choo-ka and it is Apache for Thunder.  When we look south out of the RV we can see the Huachuca Mountains - part of the Sierra Madre Mountain Range.  It is an ecological crossroads where plants and wildlife from the Sonoran and Chihuahuan deserts mingle with those from the Rocky Mountains and the Sierra Madre.  Another significant fact of these mountains - it is a natural border between the US and Mexico.

What a surprise and delight!  To get to this place we had to drive a narrow road that began at the foothills of the Mountains and eventually went into a almost one-lane road, but dead ended at the Preserve.  Pretty drive and the temperature difference was 15 degrees cooler.  The Preserve boasts to be the hummingbird capital of the world - they have documented 14 different kinds of hummers.

Pretty Ramsey Creek

Mom and Baby Coue's Deer

As we entered the Preserve's visitor center we noticed that it was a free day for admission, first Saturday of every month is free admission, how did we luck out?  Got an orientation as to the preserve and the canyon and what to expect to see, hikes we could do.  Every month is different with respect to what you could see - they experience the four seasons there with snow in December through February.  The hummingbirds are just about migrated further south by now but if we were lucky, we would see some - which we did.  We saw Coue's deer (pronounced cows) which look like your average deer only very small - about the size of a greyhound dog.  Mom, Dad, and baby.  Were not afraid of us, just watched us and then walked by.

Hike upwards to Overlook at 6200 feet

The James Cabin - built 1909

Did the casual hike up to the overlook at 6200 feet that gave us an overlook down to Sierra Vista. At the overlook you can then go on to many trails that criss cross the Huachuca's.  The rest of the trails are rated strenuous - not our type of casual hiking. But glad we hiked up to the overlook - amazing to see cactus with yucca plants with ponderosa pine trees and oaks and maple.  A real hodge podge of ecosystem.  Sometimes we felt we were back in the Pacific northwest then you come across prickly pear cactus and agave plants.

The switch backs to the overlook just about killed us, we had not hiked up a mountain for some time.  On our way down we walked along the Bledsoe Loop trail that goes along the ruins of the original homesteaders who were mining in the hills.  The canyon is named after Gardner Ramsey who had a claim in the Hamburg mine which is located within the canyon.  Many mammals live there as well as birds and butterflies that are common to the desert as well as mountains.  We noticed a 'beware of bears' sign up but did not have any fear of encountering them since there were many visitors that day.

Second James Cabin - family outgrew original 

Very peaceful Ramsey Creek flows from the upper Huachuca Mountains down through the canyon. Saw an area that many Arizona Sister butterflies frequent - they drink the salts off the ground where water has seeped to the surface.

Arizona Sister Butterfly

Canyon floor looking up at Huachuca Mountains

Now that we have visited this Preserve we will definitely come back and see it through the winter months.

Notes from Trip to NorthWest US 2013

So sad we are done with our trip to the North Western United States.  Was the best trip we have done so far - took our time, stayed for weeks at campgrounds to savor the environment, visited 15 national parks and countless monuments and historical sites, fulfilled my dream of traveling to completion the Lewis and Clark's Corp of Discovery 1804-1806 trip across the United States to Fort Clatsop in Astoria, saw the furthest northwest point of the US (Cape Flattery), witnessed some magnificent Native American cultures and traditions, met some wonderful people along the way (Ron and Carol, Russell and Susan).

We set up the RV in elevations as high as 6000 feet and as low as 26 feet.  Did an up and down type of journey all summer - surprised that when we set up camp at an elevation that should have kicked our butts didn't because we were gradually working our way up, did not affect us.  Hiked some beautiful trails in the mountains, saw some unsettling geography and wanted to leave (the uncertainty of tsunamis and earthquakes and volcano eruptions).  We put over 8,200 miles on the truck, the RV worked well (some glitches along the way) and got new shocks and suspension in Sequim, neither one of us got sick or even had a cold!  Had only 5 days of rain during these last 6 months!  Wow.  Never was delayed traveling due to bad weather - always clear.

Wish we could have spent more time in some areas because we felt so 'at home' especially in Packwood, Washington at the base of Mount Rainier, or in Sequim, Washington where the sun shines 300 days a year and is a temperate climate all year long.  Learned about temperate rain forests and rain shadows, learned the cycles of the ocean and saw tremendous tides around Astoria on the Columbia River.  We know we want to visit Alaska but will only do that via cruise ship from Seattle - we learned we cannot see past the vast forests from the roadway, so why bother doing that?

If we do not see Oregon or California or Nevada again, not a problem.  We were so surprised with Idaho that we may go back there some day.  We also verified that we do not like a lot of people living around us - no city camping, no canopy-to-canopy camping (cramped RV campgrounds). People are so inconsiderate of others - talking loudly late at night, slamming doors, leaving their trash out, not picking up after their dogs.  We loved the wide open spaces.  And nature with coyotes yipping, burros braying, elk lumbering around (Packwood), eagles flying overhead, saw orcas swimming and feeding.

The wildflowers!  Mountains, glacier lakes, the ocean, pretty streams and creeks, snow in July, what a great country. Till next spring when we head maybe towards Wyoming - thanks for reading the blog!  I will update only when we visit something new or a significant event.

Scary Ride to Tombstone

We are back at Tombstone Territories RV Resort earlier than we anticipated.  We were taking our time getting here, sort of waiting out the 100 degree weather still going on, and our next stop would have been about 2 1/2 hours drive south of Needles to Tonopah, Arizona.  We were amazed that just two weeks ago where we were, they are having horrible wet/snowy weather.  We hooked up the RV yesterday morning, got it all buttoned down and ready to move, Grace in the car in her box, tested the lights - check, Tow Package engaged - check, mirrors out and extended - check, the last thing Dave does is start up slowly then engage the brakes to make sure they work (special hookup between RV and truck) and no brakes.  None, zilch, nada.  Oh boy.  The trailer weighs about 15,000 pounds and moving down the road at 60 plus miles an hour, in close to 100 degrees in temperature, with no brakes is a disaster waiting to happen.  But, we made the decision to go anyhow.  Too far from the dealer, nothing close for 300 miles or so. Very scary ride, hoped the truck's towing power and the truck's brakes will hold the RV back if need.

Colorado River in Needles, CA

Colorado River in Parker, AZ

One of the major things we decided to do - add an hour and 1/2 driving time in order to bypass driving through Phoenix.  Very concerned that the way people cut in front without leaving enough room, or having traffic tie ups, would make it even more scary.  

Left Needles, traveled south on US route 95 which is a one lane each direction road, no cities, no towns, just wide open desert.  We passed over the Colorado River two times during the day - very pretty, but very low. Continued on south and did a jig-jag east, south, east, south, until we got to Quartzite Arizona which is a haven for winter snow birds - RV park after RV park after RV park.  And cheap.  This town is built for the RVers, nothing else to see or do.  Got on Interstate 10 towards Phoenix (east) but dropped off of it again before reaching Phoenix and headed south about 40 miles.  Again, zig, zag south, east.  Got on Interstate 8 and we knew this route has very little traffic so felt that we didn't have to worry about crazy drivers.  Zig, zag - picked up Interstate 10 again in Casa Grande and headed south (east) to Tucson.  

Picacho Peak RV Resort - winter home

Waved at Picacho Peak RV Resort (our winter home) as we drove by it and then on towards Tucson.  Big concern was it was getting near rush hour of Tucson and hopefully could get through without too much problem.  And was successful.  Drove another 2 hours and got to this campground and was set up for the night by 6:30pm.  Phew - long day. 438 miles driven (the most we have ever done in one day), 8 1/2 hours of driving time (Grace in her box for 9 1/2 hours! -poor girl), drove in 95 degrees most of the day. 

Arizona - yep, dust swirls 

Thankfully nothing happened, we are secure.  Now we enjoy this last hurrah of the trip, unload the RV and get it to the dealer within the next two weeks.

Chiricahua Mountains - view out window

55 Degrees in 4 Hours

We left Beatty, Nevada this morning and when we left it was a balmy 52 degrees.  My buddies (burros) were along the road as we pulled out of Beatty, saying goodbye for the last time.  Last night we also heard the coyotes, also saying goodbye.  Sniff, so long!

Burros saying bye-bye

Sand Dunes Near Death Valley

We drove south US Route 95 through the south western part of the state, nothing to see but sagebrush and basin/range/basin/range mountains.  Sometimes we were not sure where the road was going - just dropped off into nothingness up ahead.  Lots of mountains, saw sand dunes right by Death Valley, very little life otherwise.

Road to Nowhere (Vegas about 30 miles away)

Dropped into Las Vegas by 1pm and traffic wasn't bad although heavy for us because we are not used to more than a couple of cars on the road.  Glad we got out of Vegas with only white knuckles, Dave's plastered to the steering wheel and mine gripping the door handle.  People are nuts. They don't leave enough room when they go around and then cut too closely back into the lane and I guess the yellow solid line on your side of the road doesn't matter in Nevada, zoom around regardless.

ATVs and bikers

Then continued on Route 95 dropping more south right near Lake Mead Recreation area on towards Needles, California.  When we started this part of the southern trek we noticed in the distance what looked like a huge lake only to find out they were growing solar panels (the reflection of the panels is blue and that's what we were looking at). Also saw dirt bikes and ATVs running around on both sides near there.

Lake? No, solar panels

 We had to get on Interstate 40 going east for awhile once we got to Needles and got our teeth jolted with the lousy roads.  You would think that with the interstate system the roads/bridges would be better.  Hah.

Got here to Moon River RV Resort which is south of Bullhead City, Arizona about 2:30pm.  And the temperature was another balmy 89 and climbing.  Right now it is over 100, I guess we are getting our just rewards for being in such wonderful weather this whole summer.  Thankfully we have a couple days to get used to this before moving south again.  We decided that if we were crazy we would drive from here straight to Tombstone Territories RV Park near Huachuca City, Arizona which is south of Tucson by an hour and half, but.  That's about 448 miles from here and it would be a killer to do.  Instead, we will stop one more time for an over night before proceeding to Tombstone.

We are sad that our travels for the summer are quickly drawing to a close, but excited to settle down for a couple of months while the rest of the country gets slammed with snow.  The good thing is that we will be about an hours drive from the grand girls which will make for some fun times this winter.

Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge

We picked a brochure at the beginning of our stay here in Beatty for a wildlife refuge about 40 miles drive south of here, at the south end of Death Valley National Park, so we hopped in the truck and went there yesterday. Here we are, in the Mojave Desert and dry and desolate all around us, and yet there were these big patches of green trees, grass, lots of birds in the middle of nowhere.  And I do mean nowhere.  We saw a body of water looking north from the entrance to the refuge and realized we were looking at the southern mountain range of Death Valley National Park.

Reservoir in middle of Mojave Desert

Over 100 miles to the northeast, water from the mountains enters a vast underground aquifer system.  This water flows underground and when it comes to an area that is blocked due to a fault, it surfaces. Eventually it goes back underground.  This same water system eventually surfaces by our campground, called the Amargosa River, which stays above ground for a couple of miles, then disappears again.  This same river eventually comes above ground at Badwater Basin in Death Valley.

Endangered Devils Hole Pupfish

Ash Meadows NWR covers over 23,000 acres of spring-fed wetlands and uplands.  Very pretty area to visit.  And, since this summer was exceptionally dry and less rain than normal, I was leery we would see much greenery.  The springs are home to the Devils Hole Pupfish, a species of fish that has survived over 20,000 years in these waters.  Was very surprised at the springs, small streams of water, the fish, bunnies, heard birds and saw them but they were too quick to take a photo.  Would love to see this area in the spring or after the monsoon rains of July.  Saw many different tracks and scat (poop) but since we were there early afternoon, they were probably hiding from the sun.

Viewing platform near springs

Crystal Pool

King's Pool

Explains how water gets there

The prettiest spring we saw was called Crystal Springs, the pool where it bubbles up is 15 feet deep!  Aqua blue, water flowing quite rapidly, and no matter the dryness of the season, it flows.  This whole area was inhabited by the Paiute and Shoshone Indians hundreds of years ago and used it for gathering mesquite seeds and bulbs.  There was evidence of the Indians being there by their grinding bowls and tools left behind.  As we walked along the boardwalk with interpretive signs, we could hear the water, like a bubbling brook, very near us.  The boardwalks were built to be right near the water and the spring head where it comes out of the underground which gave you great viewing of the area.  Neat to see and appreciate the different aspects of a desert.

Had to drive back through Beatty to fill up diesel one more time, get drinking water, and saw these burros going into a saloon for a brewski.  They knew it was Beer o'clock time.

Beer here!

Back at the campground, we have been serenaded at night with our buddies (coyotes) and Thursday night they gave us a long opera.  We think there is a den not far to our rear in the BLM land behind us and when they come out right after dusk, they start yipping, sort of sounds like quiet little barks.  Then the cacophony started - and kept up for a long time.  I think they must have partied too hardy the night before because it was quiet last night. The burros are noisy, hee-hawing all night long.  Since the Amargosa River is above ground right across the roadway, they hang out there where there is plenty of grass to eat and water.

Lots of rabbits 

Side-Blotched Lizard

We do our pack up/laundry/clean today, get ready for tomorrow morning's drive to Bullhead City, Arizona.  About a 5 hour drive from here.  Will miss the coyotes, burros, Grace will miss watching her bunnies, and of course living here on the desert's edge.

Ghost Town of Rhyolite

The winds died down yesterday by noon so we drove back into town and towards Death Valley to a ghost town called Rhyolite.  This is one sad place.  The town was started in 1905 right after two prospectors found gold in them-thar-hills. By 1908 the population was estimated at 8,000 people but by 1910 most of people had left.  That's a quick boom to bust.

Rhyolite from the road to Death Valley

We have seen a number of ghost towns but what struck me the most is that what is left of the buildings. Not made of wood, but looks like caliche (mud, stones, cement) and with the weathering, really eroded down.  There was a three story building which housed merchandise, offices, post office, a bank.  Weird that this particular building was completed in 1908 - just about the time the mines/prospecting was declining.  The citizens even built a second school, completed in 1909, but by then there were no students - every one had left.  Saw pictures of the town in the hey-day and wow, looked like quite a neat place to live.

Old versus New (our truck in background)

One fascinating building was the Las Vegas Tonopah Depot, a railroad station, which after the railroad ceased, became a casino until about the mid 1930s.  Three different railroad lines came into this town, and to know it died in 5 years, amazing.

L V  and Tonopah Depot

We had to watch for rattle snakes - the warning signs were out every where. And there was the famous Bottle House, put together using glass bottles where you only see the bottoms of the bottles on the outside but the entire bottle is in the walls.  On the side of the house were bird houses, wishing well, bird feeders, fountains, etc. made out of glass fragments.  Gave me some good ideas for the beach glass collection I have from Lake Erie.

 Bottle House

Other Stuff with Glass

We don't know how Beatty survives today, there is no major grocery store, a couple of gas stations, of course a casino, three hotel chains, 3 RV parks, a brothel that is painted pink and very obvious, a couple of mom-and-pop restaurants, school, police and fire stations, a couple of churches, and lots of one story homes of which most are very sad looking.  But there are people in this town for sure.  And burros.  Caught a couple of pictures of the burros just walking down the road through town.  Everyone stops and stares, can't do much else to them.  If this town was not one of the main entry points for Death Valley National Park, I believe it would have died a long time ago.  It is hanging on, and looks to me that it will continue just because these people must have alot of true grit and tenacity.

Just walking along 

For substantial shopping you have to drive an hour and half south (about 110 miles) towards Las Vegas  or, pay double the price for the staples in one of two locations in town, sort of a 7-11 type store.  While we carry enough food for about 5 days in the RV, it's nice to get fresh veggies and fruit - none of which you will find in this town.  So, we will hopefully not get scurvy while here, leaving this Sunday for parts south.