Fort Garland and Christopher "Kit" Carson

4 miles down road is Fort Garland, a small community that was founded 1858 as an army post with the primary objective to keep the peace between the settlers and the American Indians who had lived in these areas for hundreds of years.  Being so close we had to visit the fort and museum.

Fort Garland

This photo is from 1929!

Rain all night and the threat of rain all day but we had sunshine around 11am and scooted down the street.  Walked the adobe structures which were well documented as to what happened in each area: the infantry barracks, guardhouse, sergeants quarters, parade grounds, theater, commandant's living quarters.  Five of the 22 original structures are still standing. Made of adobe, if the structure is not maintained every year, the building literally disintegrates from the elements of the weather.  Visiting this museum you had no doubt how the soldiers lived, what their conditions were like, how their day was regimented with details and structure. Officers often brought their wives and children to live at the fort.  Documented how the fort was involved in skirmishes during the Civil War, what happened after the war was over. The fort was in use by the army for over 25 years - a long time for a frontier fort. Once the Indians were removed to reservations and with the railroad coming through, the fort was abandoned in 1885 and quickly started to erode.  In 1929 the Colorado Historical Society assumed the structures and buildings and began extensive renovation and documenting of life on a frontier fort.

Sergeants quarters

Infantry's quarters

Christopher "Kit" Carson was the commandant of the fort for 18 months during 1866 - 1867. One of his many accomplishments in life besides being a scout, trader, rancher, Indian guide, mountain man - where his quietness and truthfulness earned him the nickname of American hero in the wilderness -  led to his commission as Army Brigadier General for Fort Garland.  I had read of his life as a mountain man, but did not know of the military portion of his life.  Another ah-hah happened during this visit - the Buffalo Soldiers that I learned about from Fort Huachuca in Sierra Vista, Arizona, were stationed for a time at this fort, helping with the protection of the settlers and the removal of the Indians to reservations.

The Carson's family main bedroom

Original buildings from 1858's Army era

We move on tomorrow towards Denver, Colorado.  Have had a heck of a time finding a campground. All are booked up.  Wanted to be near the southern part of Denver, near Centennial where family is located, but had to settle for a campground east of Denver, near Aurora.

Alamosa National Wildlife Refuge

After visiting the Dunes we decided to drive to the Alamosa National Wildlife Refuge about 8 miles going westbound on Route 160, the route we came in on.  We were going to turn around after we started down the road towards the refuge because we could not find it.  Continued to drive on a dirt road and eventually the road dead ended at the refuge, about 4 miles later.  We both like bird watching and thought this might be a nice change from the other activities we do.  Located in the San Luis Valley, a large valley created millions of years ago when a volcano erupted which scientists said was the largest eruption on earth, ever.  Caused this great sunken valley which is the remains of the volcano (what is left of the sides of volcano are the ring of mountains surrounding the valley).

The walking trail was closed but there was an auto tour of 3 1/2 miles you could drive to view the different wildlife, takes you on a ring road around the wetlands.  Numerous road side interpretive signs provided information on what you were seeing, what was happening, how the area was managed.  Were not smart in our timing - during the mid afternoon is not a good time to look for birds - should have come earlier or later to see more.  Did see a number of waders, white faced ibis, herons.  Red wing blackbirds, Bullocks Orioles.  And lots of bugs.  Deer, elk, and eagles are said to be year round residents here but we did not see any.

We were in the middle of wetlands.  You look in any direction and off in the distance are mountains - very tall mountains! You are standing in a big valley.  You can see cattails growing, different types of grasses, trees way out - which allow for nesting of birds and for cover for deer. Wild flowers, thickets.  Lots of water.  Marshes, standing pools of water, ditches of flowing water.  We learned this wetland is a major supplier of water for the Rio Grande River, which begins its journey somewhere in the mountains to our northwest.  But the really interesting fact is that this area only gets 7 inches of rain/snow a year.  Amazing and yet, very lush and no hint of any draught.

Barely see Sand Dunes in distance

Lots of migratory birds come here as they pass through

Wetlands with lots of wading birds

Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve

All the years we have been part-timing/extended/full-time RVing we have not come across as much rain as this trip.  Thank goodness no leaks, we are safe, and we are able to do some sightseeing during the sparse intermittent sunshine.  Yesterday's weather forecast was a go to get to Great Sand Dunes.  We are just 6 miles from the road that leads into the park, but I could not figure out where and how we got over Mt. Blanca to see them.  Dah - drive around the base of the mountain.  Elevation at the dunes visitor center was 8166 feet, we are camping at over 7800.

Crossing Medano Creek to get to dunes

Big Dunes!

Look closely - people look like ants!

What is truly amazing - the sand dunes are the tallest in North America and located here in Colorado! The dunes cover 30 square miles and to see the dunes up close is when you get the full picture as to how tall and big they are.   Mountains form a ring around 3 sides of the dunes where the prevailing southwest winds push the sand up the slopes of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains and then the easterly winds force the sand back down.  There was a picture in the visitors center that showed the dunes in 1898 and then now, the shape and size has not changed.  Snow run off from the mountains flow down around the base of the dunes and flow around it and beyond.  At times you could see pulsating waves in the Medano Creek that we crossed, a phenomenon that they are still trying to figure out.  Another amazing fact - this whole area only gets 7 inches of rain/snow a year.  And yet, lush vegetation.  This area sits on top of a large aquifer (underground water).  Water seeps down into and around the dunes and then resurfaces miles to the south in lakes and wetlands.

How dunes were formed

Lots of people, many with boards to surf down once they climbed up.  School busses loaded with kids - the parks have a great program for kids to learn about the dunes.

Have cardboard, will surf

After walking a little up the dunes (my foot could not take the rolling of the sand - hurt pretty good), we drove to the Montville Nature trail which is located at the base of the mountain and it follows an historical walk up into the canyon and explains how in the 1870s a flourishing business in a toll road targeted at pioneers who wanted to take a short cut over the mountains versus going all the way around the mountain.  Kinda spooky in one spot when we could hear a horse snorting and then eventually saw the hoof prints in the dirt when we got back to the car, this trail also is a horse trail, one of many in the park.

Remember to do this! (They don't know about Buddy and Grace.)

Nature trail

Burbling brook along trail

                   No problem hiking in over 9000 feet - I guess we have become acclimated.

Look at these elevations!

Blanca, Colorado

The last 2 days have been spent listening to the rain both day and night.  Nice to hear especially since we did not experience any of that wet stuff while at Picacho, Arizona! Did the usual routine - laundry, clean, watch the world go by, oohed and aaahhed at the lightning.  Just laid low.

Start of the hike up to Wolf Creek Pass

This morning we packed up in between rain showers and headed eastbound on state route 160, leaving Mesa Verde and the cliff dwellings behind.  This is a well traveled route, and of course, over the mountains.  Dave took the first part of the drive east through Durango and then steadily climbed up into the San Juan Mountains.  We passed through Wolf Creek pass, which  took us up to 10,857 feet and the view was magnificent.  Waterfalls, steep rock cliffs, mountain streams and rivers flowing by, and campgrounds.  Lots of them.  Packed.  We found out later that we passed one of the largest RV park in the United States, just east of South Fork, Colorado. Didn't have the camera out but picture RVs of any shape and size hugging a river, little room between rigs.  Almost looked like sardines - packed in that tight.

Large Ski Resort at Wolf Creek

Crossed the Continental Divide and started the downward trek.  Passed a snow plow and thought - gee, end of July and they still have them out?  Traveled inside a snow shed tunnel - must be where there are a lot of avalanches, and through a wiggly tunnel.  Fun day!  Stopped in Pagosa Springs to tank up and we changed drivers and I think I got the better deal - relatively flat even though we drove in elevation of 7000 plus feet. The motorhome did fantastic - although the engine screamed while pushing up and over and then trying to keep the speed down, letting the tow package keep it in check.  The car being towed was no problem, thank goodness we didn't have to worry about that.  The kids (cats) have adjusted well, neither came out to yell at me, when we got here to the campground they both immediately came out when we opened up the slides.  All is good.

Snow shed tunnel

Wiggly tunnel through mountain

Snow plow in July?

Not too close!  Drop off was a little scary!

We are stopped for 3 days in Blanca at the base of the 4th largest mountain in Colorado, Mt. Blanca. Our elevation here is 7,792 - the highest elevation we have ever camped at.  We will visit the Great Sand Dunes National Park while here.  Blanca is small, but cutesy.  Has a couple of restaurants/cafes, grocery store, gas station, and this campground.  Only 6 miles from the entrance to the national park.  Friday we will continue east and then head north on I 25 into Denver. However, we know we have to cross the Rocky Mountains yet - that will be this Friday.  Joy.

Silverton (and Durango)

The RV repairman came Friday and found that the RV did not have a problem - but the Honda CR-V had a loose connection.  Who would have thunk?  I really thought Buddy had done his thing - but glad after a quick fix we are good to go this coming Tuesday.

We had Rocky Mountain High!

Mountain Lake

Pretty mountain waterfall

First View of Silverton

We wanted to visit the towns of Silverton and Durango while here and yesterday was the perfect day to go.  We were going to drive up to Silverton first, and by driving up - I mean UP.  Elevation of that town is 9,318.  In the heart of the San Juan Mountains, one of the ranges that makes up the Rocky Mountains. Saw snow on the peaks and the temperature was a cool 62 degrees.  We were not bothered by the elevation change all the time we were there.  On the drive up we passed the Durango Silverton Narrow Gauge excursion train that we thought we would take out of Durango but decided to drive there instead and not worry about cutting our time short.  Hah! We drove it in 45 minutes and the train took 3 1/2 hours!  More time for us to shop and look around.

Durango Silverton Narrow Gauge Train

Had breakfast at Grumpy's which is located inside the Grand Imperial Hotel which was built in 1882.  The discovery of gold, silver, copper, and diamond in 1874 started the boom of Silverton.  Mining continued until 1991.  However, the town is booming with tourism today.  Full time residents are a mere 600 during the winter months. Got to be hardy folks with the roads being shut down once the snow flies! We found out that this past winter they had enough snow on the mountain that the passes have only been open for the past two weeks - had over 500 inches of snow at the passes.  One of the claim to fame for the town is that Gold Medalist Shaun White of the 2010 Olympics trained here on the famous Red Mountain - an extreme mountain course, perfecting his snowboarding skills with little attention.

Imperial Hotel/Grumpy's Restaurant

Original buildings - small shops

Stage Coach Tour if want

Cutesy little town.  We went to the Historical Museum and was very impressed with the 14,000 square feet of exhibits. From the first jail to life in the town in the 1800s to workings of the mines to an amazing mineral display which showed all the different types of products  that came from the mines.  Well documented.

We noticed a a number of Jeeps and when we toured the town to see other buildings we saw a welcome Mile High Jeep Club All-4-Fun sign and tents  for the event.  And low and behold - our neighbor at the campground is heading there today for the week long event.  He has two Jeeps strapped down inside his cargo van that he pulls with a huge super Class C.  Wow.

By 2pm we decided we had enough and drove back down into Durango.  We were on a mission to find the hotel/restaurant we visited 28 years ago - we remembered the red velvet curtains and gaudy wall paper, the old wood bar and the waitresses dressed as saloon girls.  Found it!  At the Strater Hotel.  We picked a bad day to be in town - it was Fiesta Day and the town was packed.  Much larger town than Silverton.  Walked to the hotel, stepped inside the restaurant, snapped a few pics, and grabbed a quick cup of coffee from a local shop and drove on home.  If you like a college town, Durango is it.

Durango's Strater Hotel

The bar we remembered from 28 years ago

Some memories we will keep of Silverton:  the smell of the mountain air and the cleanness of it; lupine and phlox wildflowers abundant along the roadway; mountain lakes; narrow twisty turn roads and driving over the Moline and Coal Bench Passes; the yellow of the small river flowing through town - runoff from the mines as well as leaching of minerals; the coolness of the temperatures; the Narrow Gauge train as it came into town belching smoke; there were times I wanted to start signing John Denver's song Rocky Mountain High!; the Mile High Jeep club and all the Jeeps running around.  Durango will be remembered as way way too busy for us.

Our neighbor heading to the Mile High Jeep event

Within an hour of getting down back down into Durango, we both felt very ill.  Mountain sickness (elevation change).  As soon as we got back to the RV we gulped lots of water and had snacks.  Felt much better. This was a good lesson - we cannot handle the altitude changes.  So, we will scrap our plans next week to visit Pikes Peak in Colorado Springs and move on towards Denver.

Mesa Verde National Park

Need to drive up and over this Mesa!

28 years ago we visited this national park and I do not remember the long drive in to where the cliff dwellings are located.  We did our normal routine, go to the visitor's center to get acclimated, get the park's map on things to see and do.  However, the movie of the park was shown at the Chapin Mesa visitor's center - not at the main entrance, so off we drove.  20 miles later and drive through a tunnel and climbed up and over the mesas, we watched the movie and planned our trip from there.  Mesa Verde, which means Green Table in Spanish, is a VERY large park. We drove 20 miles just to get to the largest preserved cliff dwelling, Spruce Tree House, and then another 10 miles to go on to Cliff Palace and Balcony House, then back track in miles and you can go another 20 miles to Long House and Step House.

The walk path down to Spruce Tree House

Spruce Tree House Dwelling

Over 4,500 archeological sites and over 600 cliff dwellings have been discovered so far. Talk about vista views!  When we were driving to Spruce Tree House we could see Shiprock in the distance - about 88 miles away!  The ancestral people lived in this area from 550 AD and thrived for 800 years and left for unknown reasons by 1300 AD.  Dwellings were carved out under cliffs facing the western sky, taking advantage of the sun to warm the pueblos. Only one dwelling, Balcony House, faces east and they do not know what purpose this house was used for or why it faced the morning sun, not the afternoon.

Spruce Tree House

We hiked down to see Spruce Tree House up close, the only cliff dwelling you can hike to on a self-guided tour.  All other cliff dwellings you can drive to a lookout area and view from a distance, or take a ranger led guided tour and get up close.  We opted not to do any ranger tours because you had to be able to climb up and down four ladders and walk up/down steep inclines and climb through narrow tunnels.  My foot is not healed enough to do that.  But we did take the 1.2 mile hike to the Balcony House overlook in Soda Canyon.  Pretty impressive. Not only the cliff dwelling but the fact that I could do the moderate hike - my foot definitely is not 100% and by evening it was throbbing. We took the Mesa Loop Drive which provided many opportunities to stop and view other dwellings.

Cliff Palace - ranger led tour

House of Many Windows 

Balcony House

Soda Canyon

Today we are scheduled to have the RV service technician come by to see what damage Buddy did when he crawled up under the dash.  Hopefully not too difficult to fix.  Buddy is adjusting - picking on Grace all the time.  Grace is right now sleeping on top of the dash, in the sun, while Buddy is snooping around in the bathroom (he is very inquisitive!). We are getting more comfortable with this RV, the changes we made last week seem to fit perfectly.

Made it to Cortez, Colorado

We packed up yesterday and moved the RV to the check in area at Hon Dah to hook up the car to the back end (tow it). This was after we had run into town to visit the RV shop one more time to pick up some more parts we learned we needed after searching the internet as to why some Class As are parked a certain way and some others differently.  This is definitely a learning trip!  Back to the RV park and moved to the entrance by 9am and that's when we found out that Buddy had done some not-so good things when he crawled up into the dash area.  Seems he had disconnected the towing wiring that sends signals to the car to stop/brake/go/signals.  Wonderful.  Only option was to each drive separately to our next spot.  Frustrating - 10am and things are not going good.  Rats. Hopefully rest of day would be okay.

Our original intent was for me to drive the RV with the car attached and drive the first 150 miles to Gallop, New Mexico.  Tank up and then Dave take over the driving from there to Cortez, Colorado.  So, I drove the RV while Dave drove the car, following me.  Onward and northward we trekked.

Through the north eastern part of Arizona (beautiful country!), into the far south western part of New Mexico, picking up Interstate 40 east bound into Gallup.  Filled up and Dave asked if I was comfortable driving the beast, yes, so I continued to drive on while he followed.  The route we took was one we followed 2 years ago coming down from Montana, Dave said that he recognized the landscape. Pretty country, dry barren, in the distance you could see Shiprock, the remains of a volcano hundreds of thousands of years ago, that looks like a 19th century sailing ship.  Through the Navajo Nation, very impressive and yet sad to see the poverty. We were supposed to stop and switch driving vehicles in Shiprock.  But, I decided that I knew where we were going and just continued to drive right to the camp ground.

Long day.  312 miles later, we are sitting in a premier campsite in Cortez, Colorado, one half mile from the entrance to Mesa Verde National Park.  As I look out the window I can see the Rocky Mountains about 20 miles from here.  Mesa Verde is directly north of us - a tree is blocking the view. We are not sure how long we will stay, want to get the tow package fixed, and there are so many things to see and do.

Sitting At Mesa Verde RV Resort

And Buddy and Grace? The drive here was uneventful, thank goodness, but at one point Buddy came rushing up to me and yelled and I yelled at him, and threw the contents of my water bottle at him to scare him to get into the back.  Which he did.  Poor thing.  But, no accidents.  And Buddy came out right away - he is getting used to the drive.