Palouse Falls State Park

Railroad bridge over Snake River

Decided to ride to Palouse Falls State Park, about an hour and half drive away going westbound and more north into the dry arid desert climate of eastern Washington.  Drove in rolling hills, most of the time in the valley between two cliffs, in and out of small towns.  Dave got excited when we came into Starbuck - but no, Starbucks coffee was not to be found.


The drive along US 12 had warnings every now and then for high winds - they were right.  After turning off US 12 and heading north, the force of the wind pulled the back tonneau cover off the tracks of the bed of the truck and flopped it around.  A bit scary.  Will have to remember this area as we travel tomorrow on our way to Pendleton, Oregon.

Lower Falls of Palouse - main waterfall

The landscape got a bit more dreary - very little farms, did see deer skirting across the road.  Saw wind mill farms on both sides of the road - went on for miles.  We had followed the Snake River out of Clarkston and at one point the river veered north while we continued west.  Then we caught up with the Snake again.  And saw where the Palouse River joined it.  The Snake is getting wider and deeper as we travel west with the merging of all the rivers and creeks. And to think the barge/tugboat and also the riverboat we saw yesterday morning all transverse this river to and from Portland. Saw a couple of RV parks along the way and was surprised at how many campers were there, in the middle of nowhere.

Upper Falls of Palouse

At one point we saw two large bridges over the Snake - one was for the railroad and the other was for car traffic.  The car traffic bridge was very narrow, but managed to cross without anyone coming from the other direction. Impressive bridges, can't imagine how they maintain those, the height of the railroad bridge tremendous.

Got to Palouse Falls State Park and after parking the truck, we could hear the waterfall but could not see it.  Palouse Falls is an area that during the Ice Age was in the path of one of greatest floods on earth ever known.  They call it the Great Missoula Flood where hundreds of miles of water backed up  and eventually the dam broke and water, debris, and mud cascaded south and west and eventually drained into the Columbia River and on to the ocean.  Left massive fissures and columns of eroded rock.  This waterfall is what is left of that drainage that happened 60 million years ago. The Falls drops 186 feet from the lower falls (the big fall you see) and there are the upper falls that drop 52 feet.   Walked along the rim of the big falls area and started a conversation with a gentleman who had a huge videocamera set up - he was filming peregrine falcons.  He mentioned that on Youtube you can see a video of someone who kayaked over the falls setting a world record!   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mrveNdW_sj0

After talking with park hosts about what to see and do there, walked the rim trail up river to the upper falls of the Palouse.  Happy we found a Camas Flower - this is the main food substance that the Nez Perce Indians gathered, and at one point, when Lewis and Clark stumbled out of the Bitterroot Mountains on their way to the Pacific, starved and sick, the Indians fed them Camas roots - which is in the family of asparagus and dried salmon.  However - the men gorged themselves on this food and got even more ill!  .  Picnic'd and then started our return trip back.  A good day in eastern Washington.

Three Forks Crossroads

On our way back we stopped at the 'three fork' area that crossed over US 12 where Lewis and Clark used this pathway on land on their return trip, making their trip quicker by using this Nez Perce Indian trail.  I remember reading about this from the journals.

Lewiston Sites

Yesterday was spent around Lewiston visiting some of the Lewis and Clark commemoration sites.  First stop was going to Hells Gate State Park four miles south on the Snake River.  This is an interpretive center that explained the Idaho portion of the duo's trip across America.  It is also dedicated to the Nez Perce Indians that lived in the area and befriended Lewis and Clark and aided them in continuing their journey to the Pacific Ocean.  Did not learn anything new, however, if someone visiting this Center did not know much about Lewis and Clark, this place would be very enlightening.

From internet - wave being built

Next, in downtown Lewiston, many sculptures and artwork and murals adorn the town.  Paintings depicting Lewis and Clark's journey, Indians, horses, etc. - pretty cool.  Dave caught a glimpse the other day of a weird canoe sculpture that sits in the levee pond of the Snake River but parking was not available.  I drove us around and around looking for a spot to stop - but oh well.  Found out that this sculpture is one year old, the artist has done many around the country of 'wave' things. This wave is 30 feet tall, comes out of the water.  There is also a bouquet of canoes around a fountain within this pond not far from this sculpture.  Neat.

Display of artifacts in Center

Gave up trying to stop to get closer to the wave canoe so drove east to Spaulding, Idaho, where the Nez Perce National Historic Park is located.  This is run by the National Park Service but it is on the Nez Perce Indian Reservation.  The ranger we spoke to when we first arrived was a beautiful young Nez Perce woman who told us her grandmother used to live in Spaulding and that her grandmother attended the church which was located on the Center's ground.  Spaulding is known for the first church, school, and settlement of Idaho.  An Episcopalian Minister (Spaulding) converted many Indians.  Strife eventually ended the settlement. The Center was very well done - was quite impressed with the collection of artifacts in their exhibit area.  Even was astounded to the Ohio connection - seems Rev. Spaulding sent some Indian artifacts to a Dr. Allen in Kinsman, Ohio who then donated them to Oberlin College, and then they sent them on to the Ohio Historical Society in Columbus.  It took over 130 years for these artifacts to be returned back to the Nez Perce and the Center. Chief Joseph's peace pipe that was given as a gift to a General and also his rifle and some clothing were on display in the Center.

Looking down on Idaho and Washington

Last, drove up on Spiral Road, a very deep grade of US route 95 north out of Lewiston that takes you to the top of the mountain and on a clear day you can see Oregon, Washington, and Idaho from this vantage point.  Needless to say - we were 'up there'! Glad we are not traveling 95 up this mountain on our next trip - very very steep!!!!

This has been fun being at the marina RV campground.  We have front row seats to the coming and goings on.  Very peaceful here - watching the boaters move around the river and seeing the barges move along.  This morning we are treated to seeing a smaller barge tied up on the other side of the Snake - across the river from us.

Northeast Oregon and the Wallowa Mountains

We traveled south of Clarkston to a small little town called Asotin (more of a resort town - lots of expensive homes built on the hill overlooking the Snake River) and about 10 miles beyond that to a place called Buffalo Eddy on the Snake River where there are petroglyphs on the rocks.  Thought to be at least 300 years old and possibly to as old as 4500.  Got back on the road, headed back to Asotin then headed south towards Joseph, Oregon.

Wallowa Mountains near Joseph, Oregon

The road we followed had us dropping very deep into a canyon - and then back up.  Very narrow, windy road, hugging the side of the canyon for over 9 miles - top speed was 25 miles an hour!  Glad our neighbor from our previous campground talked us out of bringing the RV on this road - WOW!!!  Every time we passed someone hauling an RV, we would say - good luck!  Breathed deeply once we crossed into Oregon and flattened out on top of the Wallowa National Forest.

A family friend said that Oregon is like one national park - that beautiful.  If what we saw yesterday is any indication, we will be on sensory overload the rest of this trip.  Saw much private land with cattle and horses grazing.  One farm had hundreds of sheep grazing - very serene.

Wallowa Mountains and Lake

Stopped at Chief Joseph's Lookout where it is said he was born somewhere near but the significance is that the Nez Perce cached their camas roots (food) in a cave right near there and when the US Army found the cache when they were pursuing the Nez Perce in 1877, the Army burned it - thus the food source was destroyed and the Indians were forced to abandon the area for good.

Horse and rider

Onward south to Joseph.  We were beginning to see this big snow capped mountain range once we stopped at the Overlook. Our goal was to get to Joseph then turn north on a county road to Imnaha where we could look down into Hells Canyon from the Oregon side.  Plans changed. The mountains raising up behind Joseph called our name.  We got information at the visitor's center of the Wallowa Mountains and Wallowa Lake and couldn't resist.  Decided to hike on an easy 3 mile round trip hike.  So very glad we did.  At the end of the hike we stopped at Chief Joseph's grave - the final resting spot for him.  He died in 1871 not far from the Wallowa Lake and was re interred at this spot in 1929.

We have found that there are so many "Heavenly" places on earth - this whole area is another one. This is a Little Alps area - they nicknamed it such. The lake is very deep, a State Park is located right at the base of the lake and a marina was attached to this lake.  Boaters out, people sunbathing on the platforms on the lake, small creeks running, just stunning. Crossed a footbridge over a roaring river.  The smells, the views, the cleanness of the air, flowers blooming - wonderful. Saw horses and riders, knew there were bear, mountain lions, etc. around but did not see any.  Did see a couple of hikers on our trail.  Once we got to the top of the overlook on the trail, the view of the Wallowa Lake was breathtaking. Had to cross 9 'rock rivers' - we called it - flow of rock down the mountain and was tricky to walk across.  Since we knew we had a two hour ride back to Clarkston, called it a day and drove home.  Glad we didn't have to travel that canyon road in the dark - too scary.  And started to see wild life near the road on our way back - deers grazing near the road and coyotes. Very good day in Oregon (ore-ee-gun).

Bridge over Wallowa River

Rock river - 9 to cross!

View of the Lake from top of hike

Clarkston, Washington

Packed up early yesterday morning and left Pollock, Idaho.  We were concerned that when we hooked up the 5th wheel to the truck we would get the trailer warning.  Got the warning, but, once Dave reset the alarm, the truck and trailer seemed to be okay.  We are very pleased with ourselves - we managed to live for 9 days being very miserly with our water usage.  Said our goodbyes to the owner and told him we would be back. We will miss our riverside spot.  And as a goodbye - a bald eagle swooped by, looking for breakfast along the river right near us.

Field of Canola

The drive to Clarkston took us on US route 95 north and up a huge mountain at White Bird, the length of the drive up the mountain was 4 miles, switching back and forth against the side and the grade was 7%.  The truck screamed at us but we got up and over the mountain without anything breaking or overheating.  Poor Grace - her ears must have hurt her with the climb in altitude - she really let us know she was uncomfortable.  As we drove along we were parallel to the Salmon River, very pretty.  Saw farms with this bright yellow (flower) on it -  discovered they were growing canola.  Green, green, then this wild bright yellow patch.  Very distinctive.

Sitting on the Dock of the Bay!

We picked up US 12 going west. Again traveled through the Nez Perce Indian Reservation, picked up the Lewis and Clark Trail and the Nez Perce Trail and on into Lewiston, crossing the Clearwater River and into Clarkston.  This is the first time we have camped at an RV resort with a marina attached to it.  Got front row spot - looking out over the marina and the Snake River (Snake and Clearwater merge in Lewiston).

The Port of Clarkston is the home to the one of the largest cranes on a navigable waterway east of Portland, Oregon.  The Clearwater Paper Corporation transports wood chips and sawdust via barges and sends goods out to Portland.  The marina here is the only marina within the two cities and many boaters travel to Hells Canyon south of the cities. And let's have a diction lesson - I grew up pronouncing Oregon as ore - ah - gone.  Nope.  It's pronounced: ore - ee - gun.

Barge heading towards Portland

The wind was howling last night and the sound of the shrouds clanging on sailboat masts - reminiscent of our years spent sailing on Lake Erie with our sailboat.  Did get to see a river barge heading westbound.

We woke this morning (sunrise is at 4:45am) to a rank smell - forgot about the large wood processing plant right on the banks of the Snake about 1 mile from us.  And Dave caught this osprey flying around over the river and it dove down and caught a fish.

Will be here for a week, then move towards Mount Rainier National Park.

Osprey looking for breakfast

Rapid River Trail 113

Rapid River Trail 113

We had planned to hike the Rapid River Trail 113 for the last couple of days but due to rain we delayed the walk until yesterday.  What a great hike!  The Rapid River has been designated a National Wild and Scenic River which means that it is still pristine - no dams, no alterations, still the natural river that it has always been for hundreds of years.  But first, we stopped at the Rapid River Fish Hatchery which is located about 2 miles from the merging of Rapid River to the Little Salmon River in Riggins.  Our tour guide, John, sure loves his work and the business.  His enthusiasm of the process this hatchery does and the impact to the salmon was so evident.  In layman's terms - the hatchery (one of 5 in Idaho) transfers salmon from the Snake River to the Salmon River above the Hells Canyon Dam and the Brownlee Dam. Very detailed process but their aim is to release 3 million steelhead salmon each year into the river. The hatchery also tags or mark the fish for scientific study and also tracking for migration and observation to number of returns, life cycle, etc.  This hatchery has been rated one of the most successful in the Pacific Northwest.  Quite impressive operation.

Pretty setting - bridge across Rapid River

After the tour we hiked Trail 113 along the Rapid River. We really did not know how long the trail was, our plan was to hike until ... then come back.  After googling the hike last night after we got back, we could have hiked over 40 miles.  As it was, we went a little over 1 1/2 miles and then return.  Absolutely one of the best hikes we have ever done.  Every step we took, the view changed - just breathtaking.  At first we were up high looking down into the canyon and the Rapid River, could hear the river and see it but it was far away. Then we walked through meadows, dropped down along the river for quite a distance.  Got to a wooden bridge (there are bridges every 1 1/2 miles) and then returned.  The butterflies!  I was so concerned about stepping on them, they were that numerous.  Took a break and sat on a rock outcropping right at the river's edge. Wonderful memories!

Trail along the river

Our break spot - sat on this rock

We saw scat droppings of a couple different animals but no bear scat, thank goodness.  The trail was well worn and very level.  Surprisingly.  We both commented that we have not traveled on any flat surfaced trail for many years.  Some steep inclines and then sharp drops down, but the trail was rated easy for the first 3 miles, then moderate, last 20 miles difficult.

Wood's Rose bushes abundant

Some sensory memories - the roar of the water was so loud that we had to yell at each other to talk.  The clearness of the water.  At still water (runs deep) you could see the bottom but for the most part, the water was cascading over rocks and the white water is pretty much what you saw.  Lots of boulders in the water.  Trees overhanging the river from one side to the other. Tremendous movement and spray/foam from the water.  The smells of the forest - pine, wild flowers especially the Wood's Rose, dampness from the rock overhangs.  You could smell the roses way before seeing them.  The moss on the trees from the wetness.  The temperature drop when you were in the shade. High cliffs overhead with birds flying in and out of crevices. The feeling you were alone and a very minuscule part of the world.  A piece of Heaven on earth.

After our walk John had suggested we drive up Seven Devils Road and go to the top where you could stand and drop a pebble into the Hells Canyon and turn 45 degrees and drop another pebble into the Salmon River Canyon - the two deepest gorges in the US (the Grand Canyon is 3rd).  Alas - too much snow and downed trees and had to turn around not far from the top.  Too bad - should have been here about two weeks later.

Downed trees and snow blocked road - too bad

Clearwater River

Speeder Rail Car

Got 'house' bound due to rain last couple of days so got caught up on reading and computer stuff and doing laundry.  It has been interesting here at the campground - two nights ago a Class A (motorhome) and 2 Class Cs (type of enclosed RV where there is sleeping area above the driver - like an overhang) pulled in and set up right beside us.  They were pulling small trailers behind the RV and it looked like rail road repair equipment that is used to repair the tracks.  Small, two seaters.  And the people looked tired, and as we watched their interactions with each other, figured they were on their way home from a job (Oregon license plates).  Not so.  These folks belong to NARCO, North American Rail Car Organization, which has chapters all over the states, Canada and even in Europe, that race their little 'speeders' on railroad tracks.  They get permission from the railroad, or from the city - who ever owns tracks, and they have rallies, put their speeders on the tracks and run them.  They go up to 40 miles an hour, two cylinder engines, draws 8 horsepower.  Boy did we peg them wrong - never judge by looks!

Clearwater River

Yesterday we drove north following US Route 95 through small towns and following the Salmon River for most of the way until we broke off 95 and went towards the Bitterroot Mountains following the Northwest Passage and Nez Perce Indian Trail following the route Lewis and Clark took when they crossed the US back in 1804 - 1806. We were not far from Montana's border. Crossed through the Nez Perce Indian Reservation and drove through very small towns. Once we got into Kooskia and started on US Route 12 - the white pine forests became so thick - was astounding to see.  As we drove US 12 we followed the Clearwater River - renamed from the Clark River after Captain William Clark, right along the edge of the road. The river is just as pretty as the Salmon - white water rapids, swift moving, clear and deep.  So PRETTY and serene!

Salmon River Valley

We stopped at a kiosk in Kooskia that explained the area, the significance of salmon (Chinook), the role the Indians played during the expedition, and had signs about hunting and logging.  This is the area where the expedition stumbled out of the mountains, starved and very ill, and the Nez Perce Indians took them in and fed them and nursed them to healthy.  They stayed in the  area for 3 weeks recouping and lived among the Indians during this time.  Since Dave and I have tried to see as many places of the Lewis and Clark expedition as we traveled west of the Mississippi, we were pleased we followed this trail for some time - now able to remember this area and the terrain with what happened from their journals.

The visibility of the mountains - still seeing snow on them, the steep grades of the roads and now understand why there are no railroads anywhere near - just is not feasible to build them because of steep grades. Seeing the Nez Perce area and the battlefields between the Indians and the Army as the Army pursued them to Canada, and fabulous green!  Clean air, seeing golden eagles flying around, hearing the hawks call - just love this area.

Funny thing happened when we stopped at the kiosk - guess who was sitting in the parking area having lunch?  Yep, our 3 buddies with the speeder rail cars.  Heading to Washington for the next rendezvous. Small world.

Salmon River, Riggins - Idaho

Looking down to river from city park

We have died and gone to heaven - this area is just so pretty!  So hard to put into words the beauty and nature we see.  Yesterday we went into Riggins - the closest town to where we are camping here in Pollock and stopped at the US Forest Service Office to get information on what to see and do while here.  We got sensory overload.  Did get a little disappointed when we found out that the two major roads (dirt roads) into Devils Canyon Wilderness area are still snow covered and hence closed, but there are other things to do while here.  Again, timing is everything - if we were here about two weeks later, we could have done the drive, but the snow will stop us.

Looking east on the Salmon River - notice rafter?

While in town we parked at the city park to overlook the Salmon River and the fishing going on.  There are some serious enterprises here.  White water rafting, fishing tours, helicopter tours, you name it and pay for it, you can do it.  We drove along the Salmon River on a road that at times was very narrow and only allow one car to pass at a time, and was just stunned at the scenery.  We traveled about 15 miles to where the road became very narrow and felt that with our large truck, just to find an area to turn around might be impossible.  As we traveled along this road and had the river raging by us, at the next turn our breaths would be taken away with the scene.  This area is BLM land and primitive camping is allowed and found a number of sites taken.  Rafters, fishing folks, did not see any hikers, did see a biker (wow!), saw horses so there had to be a ranch somewhere ? and lots of raw pristine land.  Did I tell you how pretty?

Baby deer just hanging around

Would love to live here.  Got out of the car at one point and walked along the river and found 3 mule deer just grazing right at the water's edge.  Two quickly went away and the third (smaller - possibly a baby) just was amazed at us, kept us about 30 feet away, but stayed for quite some time.  Found also at least 50 butterflies right on the water's edge.  Rafters floating by, could tell some were on a tour, some were privately owned.  Still trying to figure out what to do - have gotten more literature to review and hopefully will do a hike tomorrow.  An awesome day!

Raw beauty of Salmon River