Wildfires, Again!

Sunday evening we were sitting outside the RV, gazing over the mountains and listening to the river when Dave said - look how all the campfires here are causing it to be hazy up on the mountainsides.  Okay, I'll by that.  We had a large group of tent campers beside us and their evening campfires would make any Indian cringe.  By yesterday morning all was clear.  Didn't think anything of it.

Salmon River near North Fork, Idaho

Yesterday we drove north about 2 miles to North Fork (only 1 store which has gas station, post office, general store, bait shop, and restaurant) where people stop to get supplies or eat on their way to getting on rafts to float the Salmon River.  This particular place is exactly where Lewis and Clark split in 1805 - Clark taking 11 men and with the Indian guide - Old Toby - left to see if the Salmon River was navigable, hoping the Indians were wrong when they told him it wasn't, while Lewis stayed behind and bartered for horses and supplies.  Clark and party returned after 17 miles of transversing rapids and swift moving water and the entire party then had to travel up over the mountains on horses, leaving their cache of boats and supplies needed for the return trip buried in the ground.  This is where Sacajawea's people, the Shoshones, spent their summers, trapping and fishing and stocking up on foods for the winter.

 I have to say that this area is gorgeous.  We were also told that this drive along the river was quite stunning, most times you can see animals and birds.  Only things we saw were rafters on the water and once in a while a home/ranch. If we weren't in Idaho I'd say we were in the wilderness of Montana.  Would love to see this area in the winter.

Stopped along the way and saw/read markers commemorating something about the Expedition and what went on at a particular place.  One sight that stopped us and we took pictures - we saw a helicopter and a huge tanker truck with maybe 10 men (all dressed in dark shirt and pants) by the helicopter - Dave thought it was firefighting training exercise.  When we got back I decided to walk out into the river to see how cold the water was and how swift the current.  Wow. And it's a good thing I did it then - later in the afternoon a rattle snake was caught at the far end of the campground and they brought it over to the bank where I had stepped in and put it down.  Wasn't happy about that - why didn't they take it much farther away?

Smokejumpers and truck

Last evening while sitting out watching the world go by, again we saw that the mountains were engulfed in smoke/haze.  When we came in I got on the computer - and you guessed it - 9 wildfires were started over the weekend from lightning - right near us.  And had we known that we were driving right by it (on the other side of the mountain), we would not have gone on our little excursion.  We believe that what we saw:  the helicopter and SmokeJumpers (firefighters for wildfires) taking a break before heading back out to fight the fires. This morning the mountain is clear - hopefully the fires are getting in control.

A Day of History

On our down days I like to get the little Singer sewing machine out and do some quilt piecing. And, like all things old, this Featherweight 221 got tired and quit working.  Bummer.  The Salmon quilt shop we stopped in said the motor had seized up, it's possible to fix but costly, however, come on back with your project and you can use one of our machines!  How nice - may just do that this week.  Thought we'd get another opinion about the machine and found a quilt shop about 17 miles north of us, went looking for it yesterday and couldn't find it.  Hopefully that wasn't the start of a lousy day sightseeing.

Bannack Ghost Town

We continued traveling north on route 93 and then crossed over the Continental Divide at Chief Joseph's Pass, then continued east towards Bannack State Park in Montana.  But as we traveled along the scenic forested road, we came to a national park - Big Hole National Battlefield, Nez Perce National Historical Park.  Wasn't planning on going to this because of the sadness associated with this place - many Nez Perce Indians were slaughtered while sleeping in their tents early one morning by the US Army.  Long story short - the survivors fleeing through Montana into Yellowstone, skirmishes happened, Indians getting within 40 miles of Canada and freedom when again they were surrounded, eventually Chief Joseph surrendered and they were placed on a reservation.  All because Americans wanted the land because gold was discovered.   So many treaties and promises were broken by the US, shameful and sad.

Marker where L & C Crossed Continental Divide

Bannack State Park where Bannock Ghost Town is, our next stop - we had been here 25 years ago and there has been alot of improvements.  Last time we walked on muddy paths to each home/business and I remember that there were no doors in most of the places.  Now - wood walk paths, walking interpretive guide for each place, some were locked probably due to it falling down and hazardous.  Dave remembered a double decker outhouse and we couldn't find that.  However, a great surprise was an actor that talked at 2pm in the old Methodist church who was in character of Mark Twain - looked like him, talked like him, told great stories.  Dave was in his glory - he has read many of Samuel Clemons books and knew his life story. He said that during the question and answer period, people tried to stump him but he definitely new Mark Twain and answered just as if he was indeed him.

Marker of Sacajawea Birthplace

Instead of traveling back the way we came to Bannack, we headed south then west to Lemhi Pass - over the Continental Divide - and followed the Lewis and Clark Discovery Trail up into the mountains and over.  What a great drive!  We got to the pass which is where the Discovery Corp found the headwaters of the Missouri.  And there is a Memorial there for Sacajawea, the female Indian who accompanied Lewis and Clark.  Drove through a wonderful forest - on a one lane dirt logging road - amazing we did not come across another car!  Would have been a little shaky - the side of the road went straight down!  At the bottom again we got a great surprised! Came across a marker stating Sacajawea was born here.  I was in my glory - so much history and now I know where these places are located.  Have read the journal of the Corp and am very happy we did this trip.  I had planned for us to go to Lemhi Pass one day this week, see the interpretive signs, etc., but we would have been going west to east on this path - the Corp (and us) did the east to west route.  Would not have meant the same.

Salmon, Idaho

Nestled in the mountains

When we closed down to move yesterday morning, it took us longer than our typical time because we knew this place we have moved to didn't have sewer hookup, took our time to empty the tanks and sanitize them before we left the Teton Valley. This will be a great test for us while we are here in North Fork - have to watch our water usage so we don't fill up the tanks and have to hook up and drive over to the dump station then return back to the sight.  However - do we have a wonderful place here at Wagonhammer RV Campground.  Our drive was very pleasant - only traveled state routes and bypassed I 15 totally.  Talk about being nowhere!  For miles and miles we didn't see any homes but saw lots of cattle and traveled between mountain ranges for most of the 5 hour drive.  As we came near the town of Leadore we spotted a fox within a herd of cattle.  We criss-crossed the Lemhi River so many times we lost count - was pretty to see this swift flowing river right beside us for hours.

See the river right by us?

We are located right on the banks of the Salmon River, about 19 miles north of Salmon, Idaho in a small town called North Fork.  Nestled in a canyon between the Beaverhead Mountains and the Bitterroot Mountains, we and the other 50 or so campers are alone. Very scenic, very peaceful here, last night sitting in the living room with the river flowing by, you could hear the trickling of the water as it passes over the rocks in the bed of the river.  We saw 2 eagles yesterday, Dave got a great picture of them - Mom and her baby (Georgette and GeeGee). Haven't seen Dad (George) yet.  Our neighbors beside us, Robert and Annette, are from Idaho Falls and they escaped for a weekend to relax before he begins the harvesting season.  They come here alot, sometimes in the winter to do steelhead fishing - a big sport.  Said that often times you can see elk, mountain goats, eagles, coyotes, wolves, deer just walking along the ridge right across the river.  And so that makes us just stare out all the time looking for them - especially last evening watching Annette with her binoculars out - we started looking hard too.

Georgette and GeeGee

Lots to see here for us.  I am an American History buff, particularly Lewis and Clark's Expedition and we are near where their female Indian companion, Sacajawea, lived.  They passed through this area going out to the Pacific Ocean in 1805 and the return in 1806.  Interpretive Center in Salmon, Lewis and Clark historical sites, we want to go over the Lemhi Pass and the Lolo Pass which they traversed.

Jenny Lake

View of Jenny Lake from Inspiration Point

Yesterday we traveled back over Teton Pass to get to Grand Teton National Park - our goal was to go to the Jenny Lake area and hike up to the Hidden Falls, something we did 25 years ago.  Absolutely gorgeous day.  25 years ago there wasn't boat service to the falls and at that timeframe we hiked up to the falls and returned the same way. This time we wanted to take the boat over - saving our energy for the hike up to the falls, then continue hiking farther up to Inspiration Point, a lookout over the lake and then hike the trail around Jenny Lake back to the visitor's center.  While crossing the lake in the park's boat - you could see how crystal clear the water was - at 10 feet deep you could see the rocks on the bottom.  And cold - this lake was formed from the glacier melts thousands of years ago and is fed by the continuing snow melt off the mountains.

Runoff from Snow Melt 

Rocky Pathway

Beautiful scenery, again, lots of people, but was able to have enough quiet time to look at the river and falls, but many times had to stop in the trail to stand aside waiting for someone to pass, the trail only wide enough for one person.  And very rocky.  Dave said he remembered more ground cover and tree roots that had been worn down by feet in the path.  Yesterday's path was very rocky, not so much tree roots but small granite rocks where you really had to keep you eye on the path and your footing.  It's a good thing we have REAL hiking shoes - would have really killed us if not.

Hidden Falls

You could hear the roar of the falls from far away and became very loud as we got near it.  We traveled on to Inspiration Point - turned around and started our trek back around the lake. While staring at the falls, we saw people going by with climbing equipment - ropes, hooks (like clips) on ropes, helmets on.  Huh?  Well, as we stared in the direction they were going - we saw theses tiny little ants (really, they were the climbers) going up and going down the mountain - WAY UP THERE! Almost like Alpine climbing.  Amazing to see. Had a wonderful leisure hike back around the lake and within 1 mile of the visitor's center we heard thunder, a storm was approaching over the Tetons towards us.  Wind had picked up and we started to walk faster.  Saw lots of markings that bears are in the area - fresh paw marks and teeth marks on downed trees.  Dave made a funny that it was the bear's appetizer, we were the main meal.  Nope.  Made it back to the truck and within 5 minutes of our drive back to Jackson to get to the pass, heavy down pour.  We were absolutely pooped.  By the time we crossed back into Idaho from the pass, the rain had stopped and it was sunny again.  Too tired to cook, what should we do for dinner?

Ride a horse, save a cowboy!

We decided to eat at a brewery right down the road from where we are camping, had a fantastic dinner and some great beer to go with it.  Saw two men ride their horses up to the brewery, tied up the puppies, and sat in the back while they had a pint or two.  We teased them when we came out that where were the horses beer? The men said that they are trying to get the owner of the place to put in actual tie ups for the kids - how about signing a petition?  Go for it.  Victor is a nice quiet town that really caters to the outdoorsman.  In the winter there are numerous ski trails and snowmobile trails as well as skijoring trails - these are trails for people on skis being towed by either dogs or horses, or snowmobiles.  Wow.  We imagine that winter is really booming here - 3 breweries right here in town.

We are now ready to move on to other adventures.  Got everything done that we wanted to do, and then some.  We will move on now towards Salmon, Idaho - about a 3 hour drive from here - by the end of the week.  Will spend time looking at historical things from the Lewis and Clark Expedition of 1804-06 before moving again to Glacier National Park in upper Montana.  Loving it!

Rendezvous Mountain

JH Aerial Tram to Rendezvous Mt

We traveled back over Teton Pass yesterday morning with the goal of going to Rendezvous Mountain at Teton Village.  This is located in Jackson Hole at the base of the Teton Range (Grand Teton National Park).  The best part - the road into Teton Village bypassed Jackson - so hard to get around with all the people trying to park in town or gawk at all the stuff.  Picked up our aerial tram tickets to go to the top of the mountain and away we went.  We traveled 2.4 miles up and a vertical rise of 4,139 feet to the top in 9 minutes (the winter time the time up is 6 minutes to accommodate the 600 people an hour going to the top to ski down)  -  we were at 10,240 feet above sea level.

Parasailing off top of mountain

We had visited this mountain 25 years ago on a tram system that has since been torn down and in 2005 rebuilt to this system.  Our WOW factor was not there this time.  Yes, it was beautiful scenery and we saw parasailing activity, didn't get to see any moose until our trip back down.  Saw a lot of people, wildflowers, snow in the far distance, the peaks of the Grand Teton.  Pretty.  Standing watching the parasailing goings on - I fell flat on my butt, wasn't walking, was standing still.  The gravel and rock are so slippery. Had the opportunity to talk with a ranger at the top and when I questioned the area across the way (Four Shadows Mountain) where it looked like someone had just skied it - he said, yes - the day before a local had gone there to ski.  He said that the deal with the locals is - you have to ski somewhere on the mountain every month - and that person chose to slalom down that small area. I hope he was able to stop before hitting the gravel - ouch!

View looking north at Grand Teton rangel from top

Spent about an hour on top, walked a little of the trails - if you are not planning on hiking the 7.4 miles down and wanted to take the tram back down, what you hiked down you had to hike back up to get back to the tram, we probably dropped down about 400 feet before turning around and hiking back up to catch the tram. On our way down, the operator said that this ticket was good to go on the Teewinot chair lift and so we went to that lift and rode the open ski lift up to an area called Half Pipe, did not get off and just continued back down to Teton Village.  I think I liked that ride better - underneath us on cross country biking (no motor  bikes - regular dirt bikes) trail with lots of people doing the slalom bike course.  Looked like fun. We were going to go to a restaurant called the Mangy Moose but we weren't hungry so we opted to go do something else - was only 2pm.

Snake River raft tour

Traveled back towards Jackson and went to the Snake River and parked the truck and walked along the river watching the goings on.  People floating (swimming) by, dogs playing in the water, sunbathers, floats/rafts going by.  The current on the river was very strong and I felt the water and it was COLD!  Obviously, snow melt from the mountains.  We both were so drained by the days end, weren't sure if it was the altitude, the fresh air of the mountain, or what.  Absolutely pooped.  We were in bed by 8:30!

Hiking Jackson Lake

Marina with Tetons in the Background

After 3 days of Pineapple Express weather fronts, we got out and traveled over Teton Pass into Jackson, Wyoming yesterday and drove north to the Grand Teton National Park's north entrance - Jackson Lake and Colter Visitor Center.  I was surprised at how big this lake is, formed from the glacier runoff and snow/ice snow melt of the Tetons.  There are 7 lakes in the park and we chose this lake to do some hiking, will hike Jenny Lake another day.  Stopped at the visitor's center to get the scoop on the best viewing of the Tetons and for photography.  The visitor's center is in front of the marina, so logical we started out on the walk around the marina first.  Were very surprised at how large some of the boats were, and, we saw a sailboat just like we had many years ago - a MacGregor.  Now we knew it would be a good day! Walked the short path that hugged the bank of the marina and came across a vista view of the Tetons.  Wow.

Wilderness and Columbine Waterfalls Looking Across Jackson Lake

Oxbow Bend on Snake River, View of  Mt. Moran

From the walk by the marina we spotted a waterfall way across the lake on the mountain side.  Only through our binoculars could we verify that it was indeed a waterfall  (we love waterfalls!).  Came back to the beginning and took the lakeside trail out to a small island which skirts the edge of the lake for 2 miles.  Oh my - saw a notice that said there was a bear sighting on this trail just two days ago - beware!  Got me a little nervous.  But since there were others on the trail our chances of meeting the bear were diminished.  We did see hikers who wore bells (like jingle bells) and from what we read, these are not effective at all.  We have learned prior to the hike what to do if we encounter a bear so we were prepared.  We have also looked into purchasing a bear repellent spray - but the price of this is very cost prohibitive.  We will stick with making loud noises and clapping our hands.

I could have stayed out on this island all day and find a log to sit on to stare at the Tetons. So very calming.  When we neared the west side of the island which was where the lake opened up in front of the mountains, the waterfall wasn't just one - it was a two.  These two are called the Wilderness and Columbine Waterfalls - each is 250 feet tall - too far away to hear it but you could see how much water was flowing.  The park's information said that if you wanted to see the falls up close - boat access was the only way.

On our way back from the hike we stopped at a place called Oxbow Bend Overlook on the Snake River.  This location is one of the top 7 spots to see the Tetons.  Glad we stopped - the pics are amazing.  And finally - the clouds lifted high enough to see the peaks on all the mountains.  Yeah! A really good day!

Visit to Jackson Hole

We will be here for another 11 days, decided to drive over Teton Pass to go to Jackson and to the Visitor's Center of Grand Teton National Park.  We had been here 25 years ago, hiked Jenny Lake, stayed only 3 days, then moved on.  This time we want to do more here, taking our time to hike some trails.  One of the things I remembered and wanted to see again - the antler arches located on the square of Jackson.  Yep, still there, Jackson still is just as touristy as it was back then.  Only visited a couple of stores then left.  We thought we were lost when we started driving north on Route 89 (same one we were on before in Utah) since we couldn't find the visitor's center of the national park.  Stopped to take a couple pictures of the peaks along the roadway and then discovered if we drove another mile north we would have made it to the center.  Lots and lots of people at the national park, why would we think otherwise? This is summer, vacations for families, tour buses abound, too many people. We did do a quick little hike right out of the visitor's center, Dave got some great pics of some butterflies that were following us around.

Peaks of the mountains with heavy cloud cover

But we did accomplish what we wanted to do yesterday - got literature on best places to view the mountains/wildlife/trails to go on.  When we got back into Jackson (it is Jackson, not Jackson Hole - Hole refers to the meadows between the Wasatch Mountains and the Rocky Mountains that Jackson is located) and went to Jackson's visitor center to get more literature on other things to do.  And then - we had to travel back over the pass to get back into Idaho and home.  This pass will be driven anytime we want to go hiking at the Tetons, the only other road over is north and it's West Yellowstone where you come into Yellowstone National Park.  And we have decided not to go to Yellowstone now but capture it on our way back from Montana's adventures as we head back south to Arizona.  Dealing with heavy rain and thunderstorms now (Pineapple Express fronts) so won't venture back over until Tuesday.

Upper and Lower Mesa Falls

First complete day here in Teton Valley and we are off sightseeing.  When we checked in on Thursday the lady was telling us that two beautiful waterfalls to see were about 45 minutes north of here, near West Yellowstone, the western entrance to Yellowstone National Park.  We had planned to do the morning trek because thunderstorms were predicted for the afternoon and wanted to be back in time to make sure the windows were closed - the temp was till in the high 80's and we left windows open for Grace. After breakfast, we drove thru hilly potato/rice lands and decided to stop first at the upper falls.  Very pretty and scenic.  Wasn't the wow factor we were looking for - have seen Niagara Falls and the really wow waterfalls were Tahquamenon Falls in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan and Hueston Woods Falls in Maine.  Those - unbelievable!  However, for those folks who have not seen many waterfalls - this would be very impressive. The upper waterfall is 114 feet high and about 200 feet wide.  Walk paths took you near the falls, we were disappointed we could not be near the base like we were at Hueston and Tahquamenon, but still pretty.  The sun came out and was a pretty rainbow created by the mist.

Upper Mesa Falls

Lower Mesa Falls

The water looked so clear you thought you could drink it.  The Upper and Lower Mesa Waterfalls are located on the Henry's Fork of the Snake River - the Snake being the river that flows through Yellowstone and the Tetons.  I would imagine it would be very cold since this is snow melt from the Tetons.  On our way back to Teton Valley Campground we stopped at the next small town closest to us, Driggs, and grocery shopped at Broulin's - we thought since it is a really small town (population 1926) we may only get the essential stuff until we get to Jackson Hole.  Amazingggggg!!! But as we now realize - there is major money here in the Valley - ski resorts, not far is Jackson Hole where a lot of money is, and this is the area for hunting, fishing, hiking, camping, airplane glide riding, ATV trails, horseback trails, skiing, snowmobiling, etc. A truly sports person's paradise.

We got our thunderstorm later yesterday afternoon - the first rain we have experienced in the RV since January when we were camping at Picacho Peak.  Wonderful the hear the rain on the roof and to see and experience nature again!  The weather fronts that come through this valley are called the Pineapple Express - meaning that fronts come from the Hawaiin Islands eastward, providing heavy rains and thunderstorms during the summer months.  This is also the same frontal system that gives Phoenix area the monsoons in July and August. However, winter they get an average of 500 inches of snow - last winter only had 400 which is why everything is so dry now. The year before - 700 inches - that's a lot of snow!  We have experienced the Banana Belt (South Dakota) and now the Pineapple Express. Thunderstorms are predicted for today - we will sit tight, but tomorrow we plan to head over to Jackson and the Grand Tetons to do some exploring.  Fun!

Spuds and Utah

We packed up the RV yesterday morning and left Provo, Utah for Victor, Idaho - they dub Victor "the end of the road" because if you go any more south or east, you run smack into the Teton Mountains. We are situated in the Teton Valley - surrounded by mountains on all sides - quite lovely. Was an uneventful drive, Dave decided that since it would be a long day, to stay on Interstate 15 as long as possible instead of our original plan of taking Route 89 - the one we traveled to get to Glendale and Provo. Pulled into the campground at 3pm, most miles we have driven and longest day.  Thankfully nothing happened other than lots of road paving going on which delayed us.   Lots and lots of rolling hills and co-ops for potato seed companies.  Rice is also grown here.  When we made the turn to go east off I15 in Idaho Falls, we could just barely make out the Teton Mountains but as we neared Victor, can't miss seeing them since we are at the base of them - and they still have some snow on them.  Our plans for the next two weeks:  driving over Teton Pass to get into Jackson Hole, Wyoming about 20 miles from here, see Grand Teton National Park, go into Yellowstone National Park which is north of Grand Teton NP,  see Jackson, do as much hiking as possible.  Lovely here - very green, lush, and hot.  Was 99 when we got in yesterday afternoon, way above normal of 82.  Supposed to drop into the 70's the rest of the week and lows in the high 40's at night.  Yeah!!! cooler weather, finally. And right now there are thunderstorms over the Teton mountains - and the temp dropped down to 75 within an hour.

Thoughts on Utah - been there, done that, don't want to go back.  Got really burned out by the red rock and there must be something with kids in Utah - both campgrounds we stayed at - the kids stayed up until midnight every night playing outside. We love kids - but.  Most of you know - Dave and I are early to bed folks, early rise, so this drove us nuts.  And families had tons of kids!!!  What's up with that?  And don't use seat belts on kids, kids on back of pickup trucks' beds, kids playing in the streets, and we are talking about young - just over a year old walking in the street, we were a nervous wreck. At the campground in Provo we had the luck  two families?  - women only, right beside us in 2 RVs, and we counted 13 kids before we gave up trying to figure it out - the kids seem to multiply every time we looked. We just couldn't figure that group out.  Another thing we observed in Utah - everywhere you look and in every town - Church of the Latter Day Saints (LDS/Mormon) prominent on the main road, and we were shocked when we saw a different denomination church!

Provo

We drove north on Route 89 from Glendale to Provo, Utah yesterday 247 miles from A to B, staying at Lakeside RV Campground on the Utah River which flows into Utah Lake.  Very nice drive through a valley - the Wasatch Plateau to our right and the Pahvant Plateau to our left. Very scenic and we like driving on these country roads instead of interstates.  Much more relaxing.  We are less than 40 miles south of Salt Lake City but are not planning on doing any sightseeing either in Salt Lake or here - we have been to Salt Lake City before and don't need to see it again. This stop over for 3 days is a resupply type of visit.  Sorta like the pioneers stopping at a fort for supplies, huh?  Need lots of paper products, some things for the RV, cat food, prescriptions filled, etc.  And it's pretty hot here, just like everywhere else - supposed to be 99 today.

About the Shingle fire - I am still watching the updates, as of this morning it was 75% contained.  As we were driving north on 89 we drove past the Wood Hollow fire near Mount Pleasant which started the end of June and destroyed over 47,000 acres, 1 fatality, many out buildings lost and 1 home.  How the firefighters managed to keep the fire on one side of the road and not cross over - amazing.  Some thoughts on campgrounds - we were entertained in Glendale, a home across the street from Bauers had so many kids, and Grandma's house to boot, with Grandma moving out and one of the daughter and husband and so many kids moved in.  Two nights before we left a huge toy-hauler type 5th wheel came into the campground, turned around and parked right in front of their house - and as we watched, furniture/large appliances/beds were moved into the back of the 5th wheel from the house.  Was quite entertaining. And this same family allowed their small children to play in the street as well as stay outside playing to almost midnight!  Wow.

The campground we are at now is very much a long-term summer retreat with some worker-bees living here - at 5am they start up their vehicles and off they go.  Glad we are only staying a few days, enough is enough.

Bryce Canyon NP

We had Bryce Canyon National Park on our list of things to do while here in Glendale, Utah, but were resigned to the fact that the Shingle Fire burning just north of us would prohibit us from getting there to see it.  But, yesterday morning we said - let's do it - worst is we get turned away, or if the smoke is too bad, we turn around.  We headed up Route 89 north, past the road closures into the fire, stopped long enough at Long Valley Junction's gas station where the road closures are, saw people sitting around the small store talking - I am sure about the fire status - and still were able to continue north towards Hatch where the turn off to go east, driving towards Bryce.  The air was smoky all along and I was worried that the canyon would also be smoky.  Our trip turned out to be the best decision - the sky was partially cloudy, the wind had shifted to where the smoke was more west and north so the canyon was clear, and it was a cool 72 degrees.  Didn't stop us from getting sun burnt!



Stopped at the visitor's center, left the truck there and got on the shuttle and headed to Bryce Point, 8300 feet up, and walked the rim of the canyon back towards the Lodge, about a 2 1/2 mile hike.  Easy hike, saw spectacular views of hoodoos, red sandstone, slot canyons, objects that looked like windows, castles, amphitheater, saw faces in the great monoliths, watched hikers/horseback riders below, had a nice day.

At Sunset Point, near the Lodge, we viewed the Navajo Loop trail - and when we looked down into the canyon where the trail was to see if it was something we wanted to do - holy smokes!  Looked like little bugs moving around.  It was a couple busloads of people, Asian background, walking the 1 mile loop.  Ah - no, we won't go that trail.  The picture on the right - if you blow it up - you can see all the 'bug's.  And they were noisy! Really spoiled the whole effect of being there.

We experienced Bryce the right way - we feel.  We started at the south of the rim walk, highest elevation, and hiked down in elevation and for the most part were going down and not up.  And had a place to grab something to eat and relax at the Lodge, whereas going the other direction - would have been so much more pooped and no facilities.  One impression we got, there were many Indian/Pakistani/whatever families.  Typical attendance at Bryce is about 1.3 million people a year, we saw more people here but not as many as Zion and the South Rim - which was mobbed.  And more Far Eastern people than we saw in Zion or the North Rim.  I have seen people with 'High Five' t-shirts on - the five national parks in the area that they have been to: Zion, Arches, Grand Canyon, Bryce, and Capitol Reef - logos of each park on the back of the t-shirt.  After seeing Bryce Canyon - we are definitely red rocked out.  Done, no more, won't go see Arches again (saw it about 25 years ago) and won't see Capitol Reef.  We leave this Sunday for Provo, stopping to get supplies, etc., then move on towards Teton National Park and Yellowstone by next Thursday.

30% Contanined

The Shingle Fire, as the wildfire is called, about 10 miles north of us here in Glendale, Utah,  is 30% contained and no advancement of the fire, a good thing.  The firemen are still putting out hot spots, securing what has already burned by 'mopping up' and building a fire break to the north and east of the fire's path so it won't go beyond those breaks.  Large air tankers are flying by to the scene, dropping retardants to stop the spread. Bulldozers, equipment, tankers, helicopters - lots of things going on and it is very costly to maintain.  Think about it - you have to house the people, feed them, provide aid if hurt, give them time off to get refreshed - lots of manpower behind the scenes - and of course - lots of money spent to get this under control.  And this fire is one of over 400 burning right now in the country.  There is a wonderful website to look at - it's updated as each fire's info is updated.  http://www.inciweb.org/ According to the command center's website, people are here from Alaska, Oregon, and from Wyoming helping with this fire.  About 700 personal.  And this isn't a big fire - just it's in a mountainous area, lots of pine and scrub, fortunately only one injury, one cabin lost, and lots of woods/trees burned up.

The smoke wakes us during the night, very stinky, and we have to close the windows in order not to get sick from the smell.  In the morning a deep smoky  haze is over the valley here, we wait for the wind to change to the south to push the smoke out. As I look out the window of the RV right now, the valley to the north of us is very smoky - can barely see the top of the canyon, can't make out the pine trees and to the west - clear.  Wind out of the north west this morning.  By the latest report, they hope by the 10th of July to have the fire 100% contained.  We all need to give firefighters everywhere the respect and gratitude and credit for their hard work.  We salute you!

Still Fire Watching

Taken at 8am this morning - smoke got worse within 1 hour

This morning when we got up, we could not see more than 100 feet out the RV window, the smoke was so thick.  And stink!  We are still not 100% from the bronchitis bouts we had over a month ago and therefore we do not want to go outside until the wind shifts and moves the smoke out of this little valley.  As of this morning's 8am update, the fire has torched over 9000 acres, one fireman has been injured, one cabin has been destroyed.  The fire continues to move north and east, evacuations are still in effect for the area, our campground owner has moved all his cattle back down from the grazing area they took them to last week.  The fire destroyed the north and east fences and with the undergrowth now burnt up, the cattle have nothing to feed on and will also wander into the burnt area.  Yesterday they rounded up all the herd, carted back here.  Concerned now that the land here in the valley won't be able to support the herd, will have to now provide feed to the animals instead of letting them graze.  The cows are so noisy!  We think that the cows may be scared, smelling the smoke.  Talk about bellowing!  Today being July 4th, fireworks are not banned but people are strongly urged not to set them off.  There is a parade at 10am this morning with the typical small town concessions and games and food for the townsfolk.  We were going to go to the parade but don't want to venture out in this smoke.  Hopefully by noon the air will be clean and we can walk to the game area.  I love small towns and this town reminds me of growing up in one, everyone knows everyone and their business.

Coral Pink Sand Dunes

We needed to get out yesterday, sitting watching and waiting for this Shingle fire's update.  So, we headed south on route 89 to the Coral Pink Sand Dune State Park.  We have seen other sand dunes - the White Sands National Monument in New Mexico was impressive - not sand, but gypsum.  These Coral Pink sand dunes are made out of Navajo sandstone from two different mountain ranges - with the wind blowing from Arizona north through these two passes, causes the sandstone to erode and tumble and become sand dunes.  Pink?  No, more like melon color.  Pretty, wonder how anything can survive here.  Saw/heard/felt lots of bugs, saw lizards, tracks of possible a gopher snake, tracks of small rodents.  People out ATVing around the dunes, people hiking the interpretive trail like we were. Have to say you really had to watch for the next sign to know where you were heading to.  Got a little lost at one point and Dave went up onto a dune and saw the next sign.  Very hot and very taxing on your legs to walk the dunes.  Amazing thing was the trail we followed around the dunes dropped drastically down and in order to continue on it, we had to slide down the dune.  Boy is that sand soft.  And got into our shoes, socks, I even fell to my knees at one point because of how soft and how deep I sunk into the sand.  Nice to see, glad we did, we can compare to other sand dunes - this definitely was melon/coral, not pink!

Day 3 - Zero Containment

We have changed our plans - again.  We were going to Bryce Canyon National Park but as of 15 minutes ago, the fire reports said that smoke has filled the canyon.  So we cross off Bryce to go see, no problem.  We watch this enormous fire from our campground, thanking God that we are south of the fire, but terrified for those in the destructive path of the Shingle Fire.  It has moved north and east and has grown to 5,440 acres as of 9am this morning.  And ZERO containment.  That means they can't get any headway in extinguishing this fire.  We, for now, are in no danger, so we wait and watch and get caught up here at the campground.  We may head south for the day back into Kanab, to go to the Coral Pink Sandunes. Maybe.  As of 9am no one has been hurt in this fire.  The owner's son, Jason, spends his day with his horse and 2 dogs, herding and rounding cattle around in the mountain above the fire.  The Sheriff wants Jason out and Jason's dad, Doug (owner of the campground) told the Sheriff to leave him alone - he grew up in those mountains and he knows the terrain and knows what he's doing - he'll stay out of the way, but if you send your people in to get him - they will be in trouble, not knowing the land.  Just leave him alone, which the Sheriff does.  This morning about 6am we heard Jason go out after coming back here to get supplies, etc.  He and his 2 dogs and his horse will be on the mountain all day.

View from the road in front of campground, looking north to fire

We watch the big tanker planes fly in and out of Kanab, reloading with fire retardant, fire helicopters dropping chemical on the fire, and the roads leading north to the fire - traffic bringing in equipment.  This fire has now been upgraded to bring in the national wildfire crews, they came on board yesterday morning.  Just terrible to watch.  Why don't we leave?  We are not in harms way, eventually we will head north, but when this is contained.

About 4am we have to close all windows because the wind has brought the stench of the fire down into our valley.  We wait until about 11am when the wind changes course and blows the smoke away.  Terrible for all.  And it has been confirmed, was started by humans.

Fire!

Sun reflecting in smoke - about 5pm yesterday

12:30am last night 

7:30am this morning

Yesterday we just chilled (heated) - temp about 97 but very very windy.  I had driven into Kanab to do  some grocery shopping - but forgot that everything is closed on Sunday.  Got back and sitting in the RV doing some sewing and bam - the wind! Dust everywhere and we couldn't see to the next RV - that much.  Then.  We heard fire sirens, cars, trucks, engines racing north on the road.  Looking north - FIRE! Looked like the next valley was on fire.  Needless to say we were speechless and worried and scared.  With a number of the other RVers here - we did a watch - sitting in our chairs, watching, speculating, wondering, feeling sad for those folks north of us.  And of course for the owners of the campground we are staying at.  Just a few days ago Doug, his son and a number of other folks rounded up the cattle in the valley behind us, trucked them up to the higher elevations for the summer grazing.  Right near where the fire was.  They spent all afternoon until very late rounding the herd and moving it farther south.  Fortunately for them the fire was burning to the north and east - the wind was from the south pushing it farther north. Fire started about 10 miles north of us - that close!  Dave said we should prepare to move quickly if we had to during the night, so we dumped our waste tanks, put stuff away, and then did a fire watch during the night.  I went out about 11:30am, still an amazing glow.  Dave went out about 2:30am and said it looks like it is out - no glow.  We slept a bit then, but the smell is awful.  Most of the RVers are leaving today and so they were kinda washing their hands of it all knowing that they were moving on. Our plan if we had to go quickly, was head back south into Kanab, take the Mormon trail (route 389) into St. George, and then head up Interstate 15 - hopefully dodging all fires and get to Idaho as soon as possible.  Dave and I are staying for now - hopefully - until Sunday, or unless we are forced out.  Found out that it is called the Shingle Fire near the Swains Creek subdivision (not sure where - but about 8 miles north of us) suspect started by humans and as of 11pm last night - according to the new release - 0% contained - has burned about 500 acres. We are watching closely!  We are filled with smoke here in this little town, the wind from the north, and I took pictures a little bit ago and there is still a lot of smoke.  We were going to go to Bryce National Park today, decided not to to just hover here, and if it's all clear, tomorrow we will head there. Not fun being near wildfires - very scary, worrying about everyone involved, the cost of all the loss, just devastating.